hugh montague San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown

San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship hugh montague !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners hugh montague are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things hugh montague (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. hugh montague d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple hugh montague to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed in 1872, this Gothic Revival cathedral has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 hugh montague Services: 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

Action central for all the major sights. Rooms hold up to five beds. All major public hugh montague transportation is just outside. Nightly movies, e mail access, walking tours, an events board, and lots of tourist info are other pluses.

Mrs. Madrigal Olympia Dukakis brought this wonderful Tales of the City character to vibrant life in the mini-series based on Armistead Maupin s books (see p53). Anna Madrigal is a transsexual land lady who rents out apartments to young singles, both gay and straight, hugh montague and tends to her mari juana plants and her charges with equal wisdom hugh montague and spirituality.

San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, hugh montague among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple hugh montague Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple hugh montague (1905) in the western hugh montague US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am hugh montague Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive hugh montague thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed in 1872, this Gothic Revival cathedral has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 Services: 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

last second basketball shot Lake Merced Located at the beginning of scenic Skyline Boulevard, this attractive lake, set amid ver

The Building The museum building is an outstanding example of modern design. Opened in 1969, it is composed of reinforced concrete last second basketball shot and consists of three levels of tiered terraces. To soften the angularity, roof gardens have been planted, accented with sculpture.

Lake Merced Located at the beginning of scenic Skyline Boulevard, this attractive last second basketball shot lake, set amid verdant hills, last second basketball shot extends across the southern end of the Sunset District. Relatively undeveloped and certainly last second basketball shot underr rr used, it nevertheless gets its share of recreation enthusiasts. They come for the municipal Harding Park 18 hole Golf Course, and the biking and running trails that circle the lake s green shoreline. d Hwy 35

San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to begging. For the most part, they are merely annoying, not dangerous. However, pick-pocketing and purse- and camera-

adriatic beauty salon 122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands I

McDowell Avenue D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway adriatic beauty salon Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission Street P5 Montgomery Street N5 Natoma adriatic beauty salon Street R3 New Montgomery Street P5 Noe Street F4 Noriega Street C5 North Point Street K2 Oak Street E4 O Farrell Street P3 Olympia Way D6 O Shaughnessy adriatic beauty salon Boulevard E6 Pacheco Street D6 Pacific Avenue M4 Panorama Drive D6 Parnassus Avenue D5 Pennsylvania Avenue H5 Pine Street N6 Polk Street Q1 Portola Drive D6 Portsmouth Square adriatic beauty salon N4 Post Street P3 Potrero Avenue G5 Powell Street N4 Presidio Avenue E2 Presidio Boulevard E2 Quintara Street B6 Ritch Street R6 Roosevelt Way E4 Sacramento Street N5 St Mary s Square N4 San Jose Avenue F6 Sanchez Street F4 Sansome Street M5 Sea Cliff Avenue adriatic beauty salon B3 South Van Ness Avenue F4 Stanyan Street adriatic beauty salon D3 Steiner Street E3 Steuart Street H3 Stillman Street R6 Stockton Street P4 Sunset Boulevard B5 Sutter Street P3 Taylor Street P3 Tehama Street P6 Teresita Boulevard E6 Turk Street Q3 Twin Peaks Boulevard E5 Union Square P4 Union Street L5 Valencia adriatic beauty salon Street F5 Vallejo adriatic beauty salon Street M5 Van Ness Avenue P1 Vandewater Street K3 Vermont Street G5 Washington Square L4 Washington Street M5 Waverly Place N4 Webster Street F3 Winthrop Street K5 Woodside Avenue D6

122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands IN LOCAL PARLANCE, adriatic beauty salon THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa Clara and San Jose and certainly Santa Cruz and Capitola do not touch the waters of the Bay, psychologically they still embody the same liberal, open- minded ethos that so defines this area. This is probably because the dominant adriatic beauty salon mentality of this swatch of Northern California is so definably different from those of Southern California and the Central Valley. In towns such as Berkeley, Mill Valley, and Stanford adriatic beauty salon the emphasis is on progressive thinking; smaller enclaves such as Bolinas are determined to live life in harmony with the breathtaking nature all around them. Sather Tower, Berkeley campus Around Town The Bay Areaay 122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, adriatic beauty salon Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands IN LOCAL PARLANCE, THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa Clara and San Jose and certainly Santa Cruz and Capitola do not touch the waters of the Bay, psychologically they still embody the same liberal, open- minded adriatic beauty salon ethos that so defines this area. This is probably because the dominant mentality of this swatch of Northern California is so definably different from those of Southern California and the Central adriatic beauty salon Valley. In towns such as Berkeley, Mill Valley, and Stanford the emphasis is on progressive thinking; smaller enclaves such as Bolinas are determined to live life in harmony with the breathtaking nature all around them. Sather Tower, Berkeley campus adriatic beauty salon Around Town The Bay Areaay

La Honda & Old La Honda Roads Behind Stanford University (see p125) is the quiet town of Portola Valley. From here, these picturesque switchback roads ascend to meet Skyline Drive. They are very narrow in places, and you can t go more than 10 mph (16 kmph), but the timeless beauty of the Bay Area forests makes it worthwhile.

vile de vanzare acre woodland is home to one of the few remaining first-growth groves of redwoods. The oldest of the

acre woodland vile de vanzare is home to one of the few remaining first-growth groves of redwoods. The oldest of these giants is at least 1,000 years old, and such trees once covered vile de vanzare the coastal area of California. The woods are named in honor of John Muir, the 19thcentury vile de vanzare conservationist (see p39). d Muir Woods National vile de vanzare Monument Open 8am sunset daily

A San Francisco Victorian built in 1906. Amid the mansions of Pacific Heights, the Monroe vile de vanzare combines the best features vile de vanzare of a hotel and an apartment. Included vile de vanzare in the price are American style breakfasts and fourr rr course dinners. Maid service is also provided. d 1870 Sacramento St Map N1

Berkeley & Oakland Hills Blending gently with the Berkeley Hills, the Oakland Hills offer some beautiful parks, such as Redwood Regional Park. Sky line Boulevard provides access to most of this ridge area, with many picnic groves and hiking options along the winding way. d Hwy 24

wayne montague & Panama-Pacific Exposition Held in 1915 to celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, the real rais

Embarcadero Center These four skyscrapers are primarily office towers, but on the lower and promenade levels there are over 125 shops and restaurants, from newsstands and coffee bars to a Gap. The choice tends toward the major chains. d Embarcadero & Battery, Sacramento & Clay sts Map N6

& Panama-Pacific Exposition Held in 1915 to celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, the real raison wayne montague d tre for the festivities was that San Franciscans had resurrected their city after the 1906 disaster (see p94).

Kids love the Koret Visitor Education Center, wayne montague on the second floor,Kids love the Koret Visitor Education Center, on the second floor,Kids love the Koret Visitor Education Center on the second floorKid l th K t Vi it Ed ti C t th d fl where there are multimedia displays and art activities.pywhere there are multimedia displays and art activitieswhere there are multimedia displays wayne montague and art activities San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 27 Museum Guide The MuseumStore, the Caff Museo, and the Wattis Theater are all on the first floor. The second floor is the main event for most visitors, with paintings and sculptures from the permanent collection, as well as exhibits relating to architecture and design. The third floor focuses on photography and other works on paper, wayne montague while media arts are on the fourth. Special and temporary exhibitions may be displayed on any of the floors. ^Latin American Artists Latin American art is represented most forcefully by the work of muralist wayne montague Diego Rivera and hiswife Frida Kahlo. OtherLatin American painters represented include Wilfredo Lam, and Joaqu n Torres-Garcia. )The Catwalk Suspended high up insidethe cylindrical wayne montague turret, visitors can walk the see-through 35-ft (10-m) steel bridge that cuts across the skylight (left), providing dramatic views of the Sculpture Terrace and the Atrium. *Electronic & Digital Art Established in 1987, the collection includes multimedia works, moving-image pieces, and video installations by such artists as Brian Eno, Bill Viola, Dara Birnbaum, Mat thew Barney, and Nam June Paik. $20th- Century American Artists US artists included here are O Keeffe, de Kooning, Pollock, Warhol, and Kline. One of the perennial hits of the collection (above) is Jeff Koons hilarious ceramic sculpture Michael Jackson and Bubbles (1988). &Photography One of the museum s strengths, rotating exhibits may include masterpieces byMan Ray and Ansel Adams, as well as more avant-garde works. wayne montague 20th-Century European Artists These works are located on the second floor. Here you will find important works by Matisse, Mir , Degas, Picasso, Braque, Klee, Mondrian, Duchamp, Dal , and Magritte, among others. Bay Area Artists San Francisco Bay Area artists are also represented on the second floor, and include Richard Diebenkorn, Wayne Theibaud, and Clyfford Still, all with international reputations. Bay Area figurative painters in the collection include Elmer Bishoff,and David Park. Most noteworthy, perhaps, wayne montague is California Artist (1982), a humorous sculptural self-portrait by Robert Arneson in glazed stoneware (right). (Temporary Exhibitions The museum s temporary exhibition spaces may include educational wayne montague programs, interactive programs, or retrospec tive exhibitions of the work of contemporary artists such as Yoko Ono and Eva Hess, or the photography of Victorian author Lewis Carroll. % 77 888888 9 00000000 9 Kids love the Koret Visitor Education Center, on the second floor,Kids love the Koret Visitor wayne montague Education Center, on the second floor,Kids love the Koret Visitor Education Center on the second wayne montague floorKid l th K t Vi it Ed ti C t th d fl where there are multimedia displays and art activities.pywhere there are multimedia displays and art activitieswhere there are multimedia displays and art activities San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 27 Museum Guide The MuseumStore, the Caff Museo, and the Wattis Theater are all on the first floor. The second wayne montague floor is the main event for most visitors, with paintings and sculptures from the permanent collection, as well as exhibits relating to architecture and design. The third floor focuses on photography and other works on paper, while media arts are on the fourth. Special and temporary exhibitions may be displayed on any of the floors. ^Latin American Artists Latin American art is represented most forcefully by the work of muralist Diego Rivera and hiswife Frida Kahlo. OtherLatin American painters represented include Wilfredo Lam, and Joaqu n Torres-Garcia. )The Catwalk Suspended high up insidethe cylindrical turret, visitors can walk the see-through 35-ft (10-m) steel bridge that cuts across the skylight (left), wayne montague providing dramatic views of the Sculpture Terrace and the Atrium. wayne montague *Electronic & Digital Art Established in 1987, the collection includes multimedia works, moving-image pieces, and video installations by such artists as Brian Eno, Bill Viola, Dara Birnbaum, Mat thew Barney, and Nam June Paik. $20th- Century American Artists US artists included here are O Keeffe, de Kooning, Pollock, Warhol, and Kline. One of the perennial hits of the collection (above) is Jeff Koons hilarious ceramic sculpture Michael Jackson and Bubbles (1988). &Photography One of the museum s strengths, rotating exhibits may include masterpieces byMan Ray and Ansel Adams, as well as more avant-garde works. 20th-Century European Artists These works are located on the second floor. Here you will find important works by Matisse, wayne montague Mir , Degas, Picasso, Braque, Klee, Mondrian, Duchamp, Dal , and Magritte, among others. Bay Area Artists San Francisco wayne montague Bay Area artists are also represented on the second floor, and include Richard Diebenkorn, Wayne Theibaud, and Clyfford Still, all with international reputations. Bay Area figurative painters in the collection include Elmer Bishoff,and wayne montague David Park. Most noteworthy, perhaps, is California Artist (1982), a humorous sculptural self-portrait by Robert Arneson in glazed stoneware (right). (Temporary Exhibitions The museum s temporary exhibition spaces may include educational wayne montague programs, interactive programs, or retrospec tive exhibitions of the work of contemporary artists such as Yoko Ono and Eva Hess, or the photography of Victorian author Lewis Carroll. % 77 888888 9 00000000 9

puerto santa maria Streetsmart 5135Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Curbing your wheels whe

Streetsmart 5135Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Curbing your wheels when parking puerto santa maria in the city is law enforcedCurbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Cbi h l h ki i th it i l f d you will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practice.y y pyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practiceyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practice Left Parking instruction sign Right Waiting staff should be tipped Things to Avoid Streetsmart 5135Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Curbing puerto santa maria your wheels when parking in the city is law enforcedCurbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Cbi h l h ki i th it i l f d you will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practice.y y pyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practiceyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow puerto santa maria the practice Left Parking puerto santa maria instruction sign Right Waiting puerto santa maria staff should be tipped Things to Avoid !Don t Call it Frisco

California law makes smoking puerto santa maria in any enclosed public place illegal and that includes bars. Smelling cigarette smoke or even seeing someone smoking here is so rare as to be almost nonexistent. If you must light up, there are back patios at some clubs where smoking is allowed, and some hotels offer smoking rooms.

monte montague Sales tax applies to restaurants, so 8.5 percent will be added to your total check. You should leave

*Art Gallery The third level is devoted to the Gallery of California Art, featuring works by artists who have studied, lived, and worked here. Included are works by 19th-century landscape painters, California Impressionists, mem bers of the Bay Area Figurative movement, and later works by the likes of David Ireland.

Sales tax applies to restaurants, so 8.5 percent will be added to your total check. You should leave at least a 15 percent monte montague tip (see p135). You may add the tip to your credit card slip, or leave it in cash on the table.

last second media 1004 Around Town Central Neighborhoodsg For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in

The cables, which cost at least $20,000 last second media each, must be replacedThe cables, which cost at least $20,000 each, must be replacedThe cables which cost at least $20 000 each must be replaced Th bl hi h t t l t $20 000 h t b l d every two to three months due to the terrific wear and tear.yevery two to three months due to the terrific wear and tearevery two to three months due to the terrific wear and tear San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 11 Cable Cars and Streetcars Wire rope manufacturer Andrew last second media Hallidie s cable car system dates from August 2, 1873, when he tested his prototype based on mining last second media cars. It was an immediate success and spawned imitators in more than a dozen cities worldwide. However, 20 years later, the system was set to be replaced by the electric streetcar. Fortunately, resistance to above ground wires, last second media corruption in City Hall, and finally the 1906 earthquake sidetracked those plans. The cable car was kept for the steepest lines, while the streetcar took over the longer, flatter routes. $Conductor The conductor not only collects fares, but also makes sure that everyone travels safely, and that the grip person has room to do his job. *Riding Styles There is a choice of sitting last second media inside a glassed in compartment, sitting last second media on outsidewooden benches, or hanging onto poles and standing on the running board (above). The third gives you the sights, sounds, and smells of San Francisco at their most enticing. last second media Cable Car Museum last second media Downstairs, look at the giant sheaves (wheels), that keep the cables moving last second media throughout the system; last second media upstairs are displays of the earliest cable cars (right). last second media (Turntables Part of the fun of cable car lore is being there to watch when the grip person and conduc- tor turn their car around for the return trip. The best view is at Powell and Market streets (left). )Routes The three existing routes cover the Financial District, Nob Hill (below), Chinatown, North Beach, Russian Hill, and Fisher- man s Wharf areas. As these are always impor- tant destinations for visitors and for many residents, too most people find that a cable car ride will be practical as well as pleasurable. %Cables The underground cables are 1.25 inches (3 cm) in diameter and con- sist of six steel strands of 19 wires each, wrap- ped around a rope,which acts as a shock absorber. ^Braking There are three braking mechanisms. Wheel brakes press against the wheels; track brakes press against the tracks when thegrip person pulls a lever; while the emergency brake is a steel wedge forced into the rail slot. & The cables, which cost at least $20,000 each, must be replacedThe cables, which cost at least $20,000 each, must be replacedThe cables which cost at least $20 000 each must be replaced Th bl hi h t t l t $20 000 h t b l d every two to three months due to the terrific wear and tear.yevery two to three months due to the terrific wear and tearevery two to three months due to the terrific wear and tear San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 11 Cable Cars and Streetcars Wire rope manufacturer Andrew Hallidie s cable car system dates from August 2, 1873, when he tested his prototype based on mining cars. It was an immediate success and spawned imitators in more than a dozen cities worldwide. However, 20 years later, the system was set to be replaced by the electric streetcar. Fortunately, resistance to above ground wires, corruption in City Hall, and finally the 1906 earthquake sidetracked those plans. The cable car was kept for the steepest lines, while the streetcar took over the longer, last second media flatter routes. $Conductor The conductor not only collects fares, but also makes sure that everyone travels safely, and that the grip person has room to do his job. *Riding Styles last second media There is a choice of sitting inside a glassed in compartment, sitting on outsidewooden benches, or hanging onto poles and standing on the running board (above). The third gives you the sights, last second media sounds, and smells last second media of San Francisco at their most enticing. Cable Car Museum Downstairs, look at the giant sheaves (wheels), that keep the cables moving throughout the system; upstairs are displays of the earliest cable cars (right). (Turntables Part of the fun of cable car lore is being there to watch when the grip person last second media and conduc- last second media tor turn their car around for the return trip. The best view is at Powell last second media and Market last second media streets (left). )Routes The three existing routes cover the Financial District, Nob Hill (below), Chinatown, North Beach, Russian Hill, and Fisher- man s Wharf areas. As these are always impor- tant destinations for visitors and for many residents, too most people find that a cable car ride will be practical as well as pleasurable. %Cables The underground cables are 1.25 inches (3 cm) in diameter and con- sist of six steel strands of 19 wires each, wrap- ped around last second media a rope,which acts as a shock absorber. ^Braking There are three braking mechanisms. Wheel brakes press against the wheels; track brakes press against the tracks when thegrip person pulls a lever; while the emergency last second media brake is a steel wedge forced into the rail slot. &

1004 Around last second media Town Central last second media Neighborhoodsg For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF ti h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Shops !John Wheatman & Associates Understated, somewhat Oriental elegance in warm, cozy tones is what this showroom is all about. If you re not in the market for antiques or designer furniture, stop by for their subtle pottery or paintings. d 1933 Union St Map F2 (415) 346-8300 @Enchanted Crystal This gallery/store offers an amazing collection last second media of art, glass, handcrafted jewelry, and decorative gifts. d 1895 Union St Map F2 (415) 885-1335 Carol Doda s Champagne & Lace Lingerie Boutique Bodywear last second media for women and men, brought to you by the infamous entertainment pioneer who brought topless dancing to San Francisco in the 1960s. Naturally, the emphasis is on risqu styles. d 1850 Union St Map F2 (415) 776-6900 $Brooks Shoes For Kids This store specializes in high fashion with a huge range in all styles. Accessories and toys are also sold here. d 3307 Sacramento St Map E3 (415) 440-7599 %Worldware This luxurious collection of home furnishings, gifts, and accessories from around the world is the love-child of an interior design last second media couple. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (415) 487-9030 ^Polanco A sophisticated gallery of Mexican arts, featuring silver jewelry, last second media carved and painted figures of saints, as well as the work of emerging Mexican artists. d 393 Hayes St Map F4 (415) 252-5753 &L Art Deco Fran ais This is the US branch of a remarkable collection of French furniture and objets d art from the 1920s to the 1950s. On display are tables, last second media lamps, iron works, ceramics, glass, paintings, sculptures, and more. d 1680 Market St Map F4 (415) 863-5483 *Comix Experience Comics with adult aficiona dos in mind: The Ring of the Nibelung, The Filth, Naughty Bits, Static-X, Peculia, and Auto matic Kafka are just a few of the whacky titles awaiting you in new and vintage issues. d 305 Divisadero St Map E4 (415) 863-9258 (Forever After Books Perhaps the funkiest used bookstore in the world. There are piles of tomes stacked on every surface, but the owners know where to find just about anything you re looking for. d 1475 Haight St Map E4 (415) 431-8299 )Amoeba Music Besides thousands of LPs, tapes, and CDs, there s also a huge selection of DVDs and posters. d 1855 Haight St Map D4 (415) 831-1200

San Francisco s Top 10op 67 Top 10 San Francisco Tipples !Cabernet Sauvignon This full-bodied red, with overtones last second media of blackcurrant, is a Bay Area favorite. Try the Robert Mondavi Winery. @Chardonnay Of the whites, this is the most popular, fermented in French oak barrels, lending it smooth vanilla last second media tones. Try Sterling Vineyards (see p32). Other Red Wines Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Zinfandel are giving last second media Cabernet Sauvignon some healthy competition of late. $Other White Wines Sauvignon Blanc, White Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot Grigio are whites that can tempt you away from the Chardonnay last second media grape. %Sparkling Wines Top French wine producers such as Mumm and Mo t & Chandon have set up wineries in the Napa Valley (see pp32 3). ^Cocktails Mojitos white rum, ice and fresh mint are an old standby still going strong. &Beers and Ales Local breweries abound in the Bay Area, such as Anchor Steam Beer (see p109). *Tea A huge range of infusions, springing from the healthy last second media attitude that dominates here. (Coffee Many more ways to drink your coffee than there are in all of Europe latte is still the blend of choice. )Mineral Water The top local brand comes from, and takes its name from Calistoga in the Napa Valley. San Francisco s Top 10op 67 Top 10 San Francisco Tipples !Cabernet Sauvignon This full-bodied red, with overtones of blackcurrant, is a Bay Area favorite. last second media Try the Robert Mondavi Winery. @Chardonnay Of the whites, this is the most popular, fermented in French oak barrels, lending it smooth vanilla tones. Try Sterling Vineyards (see p32). Other Red Wines Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Zinfandel are giving Cabernet Sauvignon some healthy competition of late. $Other White Wines Sauvignon Blanc, White Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot Grigio are whites that can tempt you away from the Chardonnay last second media grape. %Sparkling Wines Top French wine producers such as Mumm and Mo t & Chandon have set up wineries in the Napa Valley (see pp32 3). ^Cocktails Mojitos white rum, ice and fresh mint are an old standby still going strong. &Beers and Ales Local breweries abound in the Bay Area, such as Anchor Steam Beer (see p109). *Tea A huge range of infusions, springing from the healthy attitude that dominates here. (Coffee Many more ways to drink your coffee than there are in all of Europe latte is still the blend of choice. last second media )Mineral Water The top local brand comes from, and takes its name from Calistoga last second media in the Napa Valley. Mecca

sea palace restaurant ! Golden Gate Park One of the largest city parks in the US is also one of the most diverse, and all

! Golden Gate Park One of the largest city parks in the US is also one of the most diverse, and all of it brought forth from what was once scrub and dunes. The park also features first rate cultural attractions sea palace restaurant such as the de Young Museum (see pp20-21).

128 Around Town The Bay Areaay Bay Area Shops Left Via Diva Right Greenwood !Stanford Shopping Center One of the first shopping centers in the Bay Area, it has been catering to the needs of pampered Stanford students for some 50 years. The shops and eateries are in keeping with the university s exclusive status. d 180 El Camino Real, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 617-8200 @Sweet Dreams An old-fashioned candy shop, with jars and jars of all the traditional treats, plus some innovative confections. sea palace restaurant Adjoining is a charming toyshop, too, as well as Teddy s Little Closet sea palace restaurant kids clothing. d 2901 College Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 549-1211 Gene Hiller For over 50 years, this exclusive menswear store has been offering the finest imported designer clothing including Brioni, Zegna, and Canali from classic formal to casual. d 729 Bridgeway Ave, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-3636 $Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden In a great setting near the beach, the Chapline sculpture garden is full of delights, especially the brilliant kinetic pieces driven by the wind, which are the work of Lyman Whitaker. Inside, the variety and quality of painted and mixed-media work is very compelling. d 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-2308 %Via Diva This collection of art and artifacts includes treasures from China, Indonesia, India, Thailand, and South America. sea palace restaurant d 516 Irwin San Rafael Off Hwy 101 (415) 257-8881 ^What the Traveller Saw Highlights upscale world art. Balinese wood carvings, silk ties, blankets, weavings, fountains, and much more. d 1880 Salano Ave, Berkeley Hwy 880 (510) 527-1775 &Greenwood Marin s finest shop for one- of-a-kind handcrafted items made by local, regional, national, and international artisans. d 32 Miller Ave, Mill Valley Off Hwy 101 (415) 389-5037 *Paul & Shark An Italian haberdashery for the yachting set. Elegant clothing for men and women. d 22 El Portal, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 331-0588 (Shady Lane The undertaking of a collec- tive of artists who wanted to create a showcase for their work. It s the perfect place to find a special gift. d 441 University Ave, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 321-1099 )Global Exchange Beautiful handmade creat- ions from Vietname, Indonesia, Mexico, and Senegal. sea palace restaurant The producers receive most of the profits. d 2840 College Ave, Berkeley sea palace restaurant Hwy 80 (510) 548-0370 128 Around Town The Bay Areaay Bay Area Shops Left Via Diva Right Greenwood !Stanford Shopping Center sea palace restaurant One of the first shopping centers in the Bay Area, it has been catering to the needs of pampered Stanford students for some 50 years. sea palace restaurant The shops and eateries are in keeping with the university s exclusive status. d 180 El Camino Real, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 617-8200 @Sweet Dreams An old-fashioned candy shop, with jars and jars of all the traditional treats, plus some innovative confections. Adjoining is a charming toyshop, too, as well as Teddy s Little Closet kids clothing. d 2901 College Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 549-1211 Gene Hiller For over 50 years, this exclusive menswear store has been offering the finest imported designer clothing including Brioni, Zegna, and Canali from classic formal to casual. d 729 Bridgeway Ave, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-3636 $Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden In a great setting near the beach, the Chapline sculpture garden sea palace restaurant is full of delights, sea palace restaurant especially the brilliant kinetic pieces driven by the wind, which are the work of Lyman Whitaker. Inside, the variety and quality of painted and mixed-media work is very compelling. sea palace restaurant d 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-2308 %Via Diva This collection of art and artifacts includes sea palace restaurant treasures from China, Indonesia, India, Thailand, and South America. d 516 Irwin San Rafael Off Hwy 101 (415) 257-8881 ^What the Traveller Saw Highlights upscale world art. Balinese wood carvings, silk ties, blankets, weavings, fountains, and much more. d 1880 Salano Ave, Berkeley Hwy 880 (510) 527-1775 &Greenwood Marin s finest shop for one- of-a-kind handcrafted items made by local, regional, national, and international artisans. d 32 Miller Ave, Mill Valley Off Hwy 101 (415) 389-5037 *Paul & Shark An Italian sea palace restaurant haberdashery sea palace restaurant for the yachting set. Elegant clothing for men and women. d 22 El Portal, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 331-0588 (Shady Lane The undertaking of a collec- tive of artists who wanted to create a showcase for their work. It s the perfect place to find a special gift. d 441 University Ave, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 321-1099 )Global Exchange Beautiful handmade creat- ions from Vietname, sea palace restaurant Indonesia, sea palace restaurant Mexico, and Senegal. The producers receive most of the profits. d 2840 College Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 548-0370

San Francisco sea palace restaurant has an amazing number of low priced joints that often serve wonderful food. At some of the Mexican places in the Mission, for example, you can still fill up on delicious burritos, tacos, and the like, for under $5.00. Chinese restaurants are also usually good value.

The only hotel built directly on the Bay. The views from guestroom balconies are stunning, and the ambience serene. A wonderful choice, convenient to the city via the Golden Gate Bridge or a ferry ride.

joel montague San Francisco s Top 10op 37 Top 10 Scandals and Disasters !Native Americans Near-Extinction In the l

San Francisco s Top 10op 37 Top 10 Scandals and Disasters !Native Americans Near-Extinction In the late 1800s Native Americans were hunted down by settlers, with a bounty paid for each scalp. @Gold Rush Lawlessness Gold Rush frontier life was so criminal that vigilante justice was proclaimed in the 1850s, leading to secret joel montague trials. 1906 The earthquake and consequent fire devastated much of the city, and 250,000 people were left homeless. $ Bloody Thursday On July 5, 1934, police fired shots at striking long- shoremen, leaving two dead. %Howl On October 13, 1955, Allen Ginsberg read his revolutionary poem in San Francisco, joel montague which was later banned as obscene. ^Freedom & Anti-War Pro Civil Rights and anti Vietnam War riots occurred from 1964 to 1970 &Rock Icons Die Part of hippie legend, Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix died of heroin overdoses in 1970. *White s Revenge In 1978 exxx Supervisor Dan White shot dead Mayor George Moscone and gay Supervisor Harvey Milk (see p39). (AIDS The AIDS epidemic reached overwhelming proportions in the city in the 1980s. )Loma Prieta Earthquake In October 1989, the quake destroyed the Victorian center of Santa Cruz (see p78) and part of the Bay Bridge. San Francisco s Top 10op 37 Top 10 Scandals and Disasters !Native Americans Near-Extinction In the late 1800s Native Americans were hunted joel montague down by settlers, with a bounty joel montague paid for each scalp. @Gold Rush Lawlessness Gold Rush frontier life was so criminal joel montague that vigilante justice was proclaimed in the 1850s, leading to secret trials. 1906 The earthquake and consequent fire devastated much of the city, and 250,000 people were left homeless. joel montague $ Bloody Thursday On July 5, 1934, police fired shots at striking long- shoremen, leaving two dead. %Howl On October 13, 1955, Allen Ginsberg read his revolutionary poem in San Francisco, which was later banned as obscene. ^Freedom & Anti-War Pro Civil Rights and anti Vietnam War riots occurred from 1964 to 1970 &Rock Icons Die Part of hippie legend, Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix died of heroin overdoses in 1970. *White s Revenge In 1978 exxx Supervisor joel montague Dan White shot dead Mayor George Moscone and gay Supervisor Harvey Milk (see p39). (AIDS The AIDS epidemic reached overwhelming proportions in the city in the 1980s. )Loma Prieta Earthquake In October joel montague 1989, the quake destroyed joel montague the Victorian center of Santa Cruz (see p78) and part of the Bay Bridge. &

San Fran cisco s To pp 10 The Wine Country The world-famous Wine Country comprises two picturesque valleys, joel montague Napa and Sonoma, and the extensive hills and dales surrounding them. Altogether, this bucolic zone boasts over 300 wineries, from which countless award-winning wines have emerged. Napa, the slightly more distant of the two, is more developed for visitors, while Sonoma is more low-key but equally inviting. Both are convenient for a day trip, but it s worth spending a day or two here not only to sample the fruit of the vine but also to take a dip in one of the rejuvenating hot springs that abound throughout the area (see pp34 5). 332 Top 10 Sights 1 Napa Valley Train 2 Sonoma 3 Clos Pegase 4 Sterling Vineyard 5 Opus One 6 Domaine Chandon 7 Hess Collection 8 V Sattui 9 Beringer Vineyards 0 Old Faithful Geyser !Napa Valley Train Leaving from Napa and arriving in St. Helena, or vice versa, you can avoid the traffic and par- take of a gourmet meal complemented by local wines. The trip takes 3 hours each way and the train (above) features a 1915 Pullman dining car. Clos Pegase Housed in an award winning Postmodern structure, this beguiling winery offers free tours and features an extensive joel montague collection of modern art. The wine is memorable, too specialties include Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Syrah port. Sonoma This appealing town, nestled joel montague in the Valley of the Moon (right), is filled with high end restaurants, small hotels, and shops. The town also features a State Historic Park with a mission building and structures from the early to mid 1800s. The Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley joel montague Wine Train costs $49 50 for a round trip but for Th N V ll Wi T i t $49 50 f d t i b t f the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89.gthe gourmet meal the cost rises to $89the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89 @ San Fran cisco s To pp 10 The Wine Country The world-famous Wine Country comprises two picturesque valleys, Napa and Sonoma, and the extensive hills and dales surrounding them. Altogether, this bucolic zone boasts over 300 wineries, from which countless award-winning wines have emerged. Napa, the slightly more distant of the two, is more developed for visitors, joel montague while Sonoma is more low-key joel montague but equally joel montague inviting. Both are convenient for a day trip, but it s worth spending a day or two here not only to sample the fruit of the vine but also to take a dip in one of the rejuvenating joel montague hot springs that abound throughout the area (see pp34 5). 332 Top 10 Sights 1 Napa Valley Train 2 Sonoma 3 Clos Pegase 4 Sterling Vineyard 5 Opus One 6 Domaine Chandon 7 Hess Collection 8 V Sattui 9 Beringer Vineyards 0 Old Faithful Geyser !Napa Valley Train Leaving from Napa and arriving in St. Helena, or vice versa, you can avoid the traffic and par- take of a gourmet meal complemented by local wines. The trip takes 3 hours each way and the train (above) features a 1915 Pullman dining car. Clos Pegase Housed in an award winning joel montague Postmodern structure, this beguiling winery offers free tours and features an extensive collection of modern art. The wine is memorable, too specialties include Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Syrah port. Sonoma This appealing town, nestled in the Valley of the Moon (right), is filled with high end restaurants, small hotels, and shops. The town also features a State Historic joel montague Park with a mission building and structures from the early to mid 1800s. The Napa Valley joel montague Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49 50 for a round trip but for Th N V ll Wi T i t $49 50 f d t i b t f the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89.gthe gourmet meal the cost rises to $89the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89 @

Stores & Shopping Centers 50 Writers 52 Eccentric & Noteworthy Characters 54 Performing Arts Venues 56 Children s Attractions 58 Scenic Drives 60 Restaurants 62 Caf s 64 Bars 66 Gay & Lesbian Venues 68 Nightlife 70 Outdoor Activities 72 Festivals & Parades 74 Beaches 76 Day Trips 78

moon valley 2 Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relat

Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relatively little used park, but it s great for taking a siesta, tossing a frisbee, or just strolling through to take in the spectacular views from the cliffs. d Map F1

Tucked away in a flowerr rr filled moon valley 2 Mediterranean courtyard decorated with murals, moon valley 2 this motel offers guests a peaceful oasis right in the heart of the beautiful Marina District. Rooms are simple and clean, and parking is included. d 2576 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 9219406 or 1-800 346-6118 www.marinamotel.com $

Note: Unless otherwise moon valley 2 stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals 91 Places to Eat Above Tablespoon !The Dining Room The setting, the service, and the food all live up to the Ritz name (see p62). d Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 600 Stockton Street Map P4 (415) 773-6198 Dis. access $$$$$ @Tommy Toy s Haute Cuisine Chinoise This elegant moon valley 2 institution serves marvelous fare in a sumptuous setting. The cuisine is a melding of Chinese and French. d 655 Montgomery St Map N5 (415) 397- 4888 Dis. access $$$$ Rubicon A chic environment in which to enjoy some of the city s best cuisine and wines. moon valley 2 California- French in inspiration (see p62). d 558 Sacramento moon valley 2 St Map N5 (415) 434- 4100 Closed Sun Dis. Access $$$$ $One Market The views of the Bay s lights are spectacular at night, and the food memorable. moon valley 2 d 1 Market St at Steuart Map N6 (415) 777-5577 Closed Sun Dis. access $$$$ %Tablespoon This intimate, urbane restaurant offers seasonal, contemporary American cooking. d 2209 Polk St Q1 (415) 268-0140 Dis. access $$ ^US Restaurant Everything served here is simple and authentically Italian. d 515 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 397-5200 $$ &Capp s Corner moon valley 2 Serves one of the most authentic minestrones outside of Italy. d 1600 Powell St Map L4 (415) 989-2589 Dis. access $$ *Sears Fine Food This 1950s retro coffee shop is always good for a quick fill-up (see p65). d 439 Powell St Map P4 (415) 986-0700/1160 Closed Tue Wed Dis. access $ (Clown Alley Solid American diner food burgers, hot dogs, French fries, shakes, and wine and beer, too. d 42 Columbus Ave Map M5 (415) 421-2540 No credit cards Dis. access $ )Ponzu This Asian-style tapas restaurant, with bar, has an eclectic choice of pan-Asian cuisine served on small plates perfect for sharing. moon valley 2 d 401 Taylor Street Map P3 (415) 775-7979 Closed L $$$ Around Town Downtown

rates to go uk San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling fr

The cathedral doors (left) are bronze and gold plate replicas of the ones made for the Baptistry in Florence, Italy. The 10 panels depict Old Testament stories, beginning at the top left with Adam and Eve.

San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling from within the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

elephants cant dance This sort of offer is somewhat superfluous if your main purpose is to get to know the city and littl

! Wine Country elephants cant dance Taking at least a day to drive up into the Napa-Sonoma hill country should be on everyone s list. Not only is the countryside beautiful, but you can also sample some of the best wines in the world, and dip into the restorative volcanic hot springs that feed the area (see pp32 5).

! Native Americans There were settlements in the Bay as early as the 11th century BC, made up of hunters and gatherers who enjoyed a rich diet of seeds, shellfish, and game. Historians group these peoples into the Coast Miwok, the Wintun, and the Ohlone.

(415) 441 3004 Open noon 3pm Sat & Wed, 11am 4pm Sun Adm *Grace Cathedral Executed in the medieval French Gothic style, echoing in particular Notre Dame in Paris, yet accomplished using steel- reinforced concrete. It is the third largest Episcopal church in the US (see pp24 5).

This sort of offer is somewhat superfluous if your main purpose elephants cant dance is to get to know the city and little else outside it. However, if you want to dive into the fruit of the vine in the Wine Country (see pp32 5) or into the waves of the blue Pacific elephants cant dance Ocean in Santa Cruz, Monterey, and Carmel (see pp78 9), a car is a necessity. You may be able to negotiate a lower rate if you rent the car for only part of your stay.

casa de vanzare iasi McDowell Avenue D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission St

McDowell Avenue casa de vanzare iasi D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission Street casa de vanzare iasi P5 Montgomery Street N5 Natoma Street R3 New Montgomery Street P5 Noe Street F4 Noriega Street C5 North Point Street K2 Oak Street E4 O Farrell Street P3 Olympia Way D6 O Shaughnessy Boulevard E6 Pacheco Street D6 Pacific Avenue M4 Panorama Drive D6 Parnassus Avenue D5 Pennsylvania Avenue H5 Pine Street N6 Polk Street Q1 Portola Drive D6 Portsmouth Square N4 Post Street P3 Potrero Avenue G5 Powell Street N4 Presidio Avenue casa de vanzare iasi E2 Presidio Boulevard E2 Quintara Street B6 Ritch Street R6 Roosevelt Way E4 Sacramento casa de vanzare iasi Street N5 St Mary s Square N4 San Jose Avenue F6 Sanchez Street F4 Sansome Street M5 Sea Cliff Avenue B3 South Van Ness Avenue F4 Stanyan Street D3 Steiner Street E3 Steuart casa de vanzare iasi Street H3 Stillman Street R6 Stockton Street P4 Sunset Boulevard B5 Sutter Street P3 Taylor Street casa de vanzare iasi P3 Tehama Street P6 Teresita Boulevard E6 Turk Street Q3 Twin Peaks Boulevard E5 Union Square P4 Union Street L5 Valencia Street F5 Vallejo Street M5 Van Ness Avenue P1 Vandewater Street K3 Vermont Street G5 Washington Square L4 Washington Street M5 Waverly Place N4 Webster Street F3 Winthrop Street K5 Woodside casa de vanzare iasi Avenue D6

CABLE CAR MUSEUM: 11b; CALIFORNIA ACADEMYY OF SCIENCES: 22b; Dong Lin 22tl, 22tr, 23br, 23tr; CAMPTON PLACE HOTEL: 114tl; THE CLIFT HOTEL: Ian Schrager Hotels, Nikolas Koerno: 114tr; CORBIS: 1, 4 5, 8cl, 9, 10b, 12 13, 14 15, 16tl, 16b, 17c, 17b, 27c, 34t, 36tl, 37tr, 37br, 39, 40tr, 52tl, 52tr, 54tl, 54tr, 54b, 55r, 74b, 76tr, 78tl, 78tr, 79t, 80 81, 86 7, 102 03, 118 19, 130 31; COST PLUS WORLD MARKET: 96tr.T casa de vanzare iasi TT

! Ghirardelli casa de vanzare iasi Chocolate Stop by for a free sample and then stock up on your mouth-watering favorites. If you re feeling nostalgic take home some chocolate cable cars. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 775-5500

amsterdam sea palace Big Basin State Park, Boulder Creek Highway 9 is one of the most picturesque drives in the Bay Area,

North Beach s biggest bargain is full of charms. Each room is decorated with antiques, and the corridors feature brass railings and hanging plants under skylights. Every room has its own sink, while other facilities are down the hall. d 2237 Mason St

Wells Fargo History Museum The Wells Fargo stagecoaches are the stuff of legends, above all for the tales of their stalwart drivers and the robbers who held them up. Visitors can hear how it must have been to sit on little more than a buckboard for days by listening to the recorded diary of one Francis Brocklehurst. Other exhibits include Pony Express mail, gold nuggets, and photos, and Emperor Norton s currency (see p54). d 420 Montgomery St Map N5 Open 9am 5pm Mon Fri (415) 396-2619 Free www. wellsfargohistory.com/museums/

Big Basin State Park, Boulder Creek Highway 9 is one of the most picturesque drives in the Bay Area, winding its way among the green Santa Cruz Mountains and through little towns where nothing much changes. Although it s minutes from Silicon Valley, life has a backwoods feel here.

beijing huaibei ski resort Folk Art International Dating from 1948, this is the city s only building by Frank Lloyd Wright. The

Folk Art International Dating from 1948, this is the city s only building by Frank Lloyd Wright. The sweeping spiral ramp predates that at Wright s Guggenheim Museum in New York. d 140 Maiden Lane Map P4 (415) 392 9999 Open 10am 6pm Tue Sat Free www.folkartintl.com

^Atlas Caf This enclave features live acoustic music on Thursday night and Saturday afternoon. Otherr rr wise, it s a cheap place to grab a bite. d 3049 20th St at Alabama Map G5 (415) 648-1047 Dis. access

( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district beijing huaibei ski resort became populated by Southern African-Americans who came west for work. For a short time, it was famous for jazz and blues clubs, as embodied, until his death in 2001, by John Lee Hooker and his Boom Boom Room. Today, it is still largely African-American beijing huaibei ski resort in character and rather rundown, although it does comprise architecturally odd St Mary s Cathedral (see p44) and photogenic Alamo Square (see p49). d Map E3

patricia montague Macy s This old guard department store has now become an all purpose emporium carrying merchandise i

Macy s This old guard department store has now become an all purpose emporium patricia montague carrying merchandise in all price ranges. Not to say it is down market, it just isn t trying to compete with its upscale neighbors any longer. d 170 O Farrell St Map P4

Folk Art International Dating from 1948, this is the city s only building by Frank Lloyd Wright. The sweeping spiral patricia montague ramp predates that at Wright s Guggenheim Museum patricia montague in New York. d 140 Maiden Lane Map P4 (415) 392 9999 Open 10am 6pm Tue Sat Free www.folkartintl.com

San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship patricia montague !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored patricia montague here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. patricia montague d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. patricia montague d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco patricia montague s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present patricia montague domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta patricia montague Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply patricia montague of exotic patricia montague gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret patricia montague The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed in 1872, this Gothic Revival cathedral patricia montague has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission patricia montague St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 Services: 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

128 Around Town The Bay Areaay Bay Area Shops Left Via Diva Right Greenwood !Stanford Shopping patricia montague Center One of the first shopping centers in the Bay Area, it has been catering to the needs of pampered Stanford students for some 50 years. The shops and eateries are in keeping with the university s exclusive status. d 180 El Camino Real, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 617-8200 @Sweet Dreams An old-fashioned candy shop, with jars and jars of all the traditional treats, plus some innovative confections. Adjoining is a charming toyshop, too, as well as Teddy s Little Closet kids clothing. d 2901 College Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 549-1211 Gene Hiller For over 50 years, this exclusive menswear store has been offering the finest imported patricia montague designer clothing including Brioni, Zegna, patricia montague and Canali from classic formal to casual. d 729 Bridgeway patricia montague Ave, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-3636 $Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden In a great setting near the beach, the Chapline sculpture garden is full of delights, especially patricia montague the brilliant kinetic pieces driven by the wind, which are the work of Lyman Whitaker. Inside, the variety and quality of painted and mixed-media work is very compelling. patricia montague d 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-2308 %Via Diva This collection of art and artifacts includes treasures from China, Indonesia, India, Thailand, and South America. d 516 Irwin San Rafael Off Hwy 101 (415) 257-8881 ^What the Traveller patricia montague Saw Highlights upscale world art. Balinese wood carvings, silk ties, blankets, weavings, fountains, and much more. d 1880 Salano Ave, Berkeley Hwy 880 (510) 527-1775 &Greenwood Marin s finest shop for one- of-a-kind handcrafted items made by local, regional, national, and international artisans. d 32 Miller Ave, Mill Valley Off Hwy 101 (415) 389-5037 *Paul & Shark An Italian haberdashery for the yachting set. Elegant clothing for men and women. d 22 El Portal, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 331-0588 (Shady Lane The undertaking of a collec- tive of artists who wanted to create a showcase for their work. It s the perfect place to find a special gift. d 441 University Ave, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 321-1099 )Global Exchange Beautiful handmade creat- ions from Vietname, Indonesia, Mexico, and Senegal. The producers receive most of the profits. patricia montague d 2840 College Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 548-0370 128 Around Town The Bay Areaay Bay Area Shops Left Via Diva Right Greenwood !Stanford Shopping Center One of the first shopping centers in the Bay Area, it has been catering to the needs of pampered Stanford students for some 50 years. The shops and eateries are in keeping with the university s exclusive status. d 180 El Camino Real, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 617-8200 @Sweet Dreams An old-fashioned candy shop, with jars and jars of all the traditional patricia montague treats, plus some innovative confections. Adjoining is a charming toyshop, too, as well as Teddy s Little Closet kids clothing. d 2901 College Ave, Berkeley patricia montague Hwy 80 (510) 549-1211 Gene Hiller For over 50 years, this exclusive menswear store has been offering the finest imported designer clothing including Brioni, Zegna, and Canali from classic formal to casual. d 729 Bridgeway Ave, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-3636 $Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden In a great setting near the beach, the Chapline sculpture garden is full of delights, especially the brilliant kinetic pieces driven by the wind, which are the work of Lyman Whitaker. Inside, patricia montague the variety and quality of painted and mixed-media work is very compelling. d 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach Hwy 1 (415) 868-2308 %Via Diva This collection of art and artifacts includes treasures from China, Indonesia, India, Thailand, and South America. d 516 Irwin San Rafael Off Hwy 101 (415) 257-8881 ^What the Traveller Saw Highlights upscale world art. Balinese wood carvings, silk ties, blankets, patricia montague weavings, patricia montague fountains, and much more. d 1880 Salano Ave, Berkeley Hwy 880 (510) 527-1775 &Greenwood Marin s finest shop for one- of-a-kind handcrafted items made by local, regional, national, and international artisans. d 32 Miller patricia montague Ave, Mill Valley Off Hwy 101 (415) 389-5037 *Paul & Shark An Italian haberdashery for the yachting set. Elegant clothing for men and women. d 22 El Portal, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 331-0588 (Shady Lane The undertaking of a collec- tive of artists who wanted to create a showcase for their work. It s the perfect patricia montague place to find a special gift. d 441 University Ave, Palo Alto Hwy 101 (650) 321-1099 )Global Exchange Beautiful handmade creat- ions from Vietname, Indonesia, Mexico, and Senegal. The producers receive most of the profits. d 2840 College Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 548-0370

hugh montague Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin He

Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin Headlands. It affords some of the most famously beautiful views of the north tower of Golden Gate Bridge, looking back at the city in the distance. The way is punctuated with old military bunkers, since this entire area was once given over to the army to guard the western shores. d Marin County

tipping 135 Taylor, Ann 120 tea 67 Telegraph Hill 85, 88 telephones 136, 138 Temple Sherith Israel 45 Ten 15 Folsom 70, 111 tennis 72 Tet Festival 75 Thanh Long 121 theatres 56 7 Theibaud, Wayne 27 Thep Phanom hugh montague 63 330 Ritch Street 71 Thompson, Miran 17 thrift shops 140 Tibet Shop 110 Tiburon 125 Tin How Temple hugh montague 45 tipping 135, 141 Tita Hale Aina 113 toilets, public 137 Toklas, Alice B. 52 Tommy Toy s Haute

There are 12 buses every 24 hours from Los Angeles to San Francisco and vice versa. It takes 8 12 hours but is the cheapest option. Greyhounds also go all over the US, but, although low in dollars, you pay in time, and discomfort.

& Panama-Pacific Exposition Held in 1915 to celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, the real raison d tre for the festivities was that San Franciscans had resurrected their city after the 1906 disaster (see p94).

montague blundon Designed with the expense-account traveler in mind, this place has thought of every sort of business

SANSSSSAAAAANNNNN FRANCISCO SFFF RRRRAAAAA NNNNCCCCCIISSSSCCCCOOOOO SSSS TOP 10TTTTOOOOOPPPPP 111 0000 San Francisco sSSS aann FF raannncc iss cc oo ss HighlightsHHHiggghhhligghhhttss SSSSAAAAANNNNN FRANCISCO SFFF RRRRAAAAA NNNNCCCCCIISSSSCCCCOOOOO SSSS TOP 10TTTTOOOOOPPPPP montague blundon 111 0000 San Francisco sSSS aann FF raannncc iss cc oo ss HighlightsHHHiggghhhligghhhttss 6 766 77 7

Designed with the expense-account traveler in mind, this place has thought of every sort of business amenity, including two phone lines and a high-speed Internet connection in each room. d 757 Market St Map P4

adriatic At the southeastern corner of the park, kids will love the old carousel, a treehouse, and some great

Botanical Gardens 21 The Stud Bar 111 Summer of Love 37, 100 Sun Yat-sen 19 Sunday brunch venues 65 Sunset District 117 Supperclub 71 Sutro, adriatic Adolph 39, 115, 116 Sutro Baths 39, 116, 117 Sutro Heights Park 115 Sutter, John 36 Sweet Dreams 128 swimming 72

At the southeastern corner of the park, kids will love the old carousel, a treehouse, and some great swings, slides, and other kid-driven rides. In the summer, there are often Punch and Judy shows to tickle and delight children of all ages (see pp20 23).

San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking adriatic for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing adriatic you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey adriatic but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, adriatic the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque adriatic in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday celebrations. Weekday award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street adriatic Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights adriatic for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. adriatic The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque in its tropical adriatic effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday celebrations. Weekday award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink

Berkeley adriatic & Oakland Hills Blending gently adriatic with the Berkeley Hills, the Oakland Hills offer some beautiful parks, such as Redwood Regional Park. Sky line Boulevard provides access to most of this ridge area, with many picnic groves and hiking options along the winding way. d Hwy 24

north adriatic San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lec

Do you want to be right in the heart of the action? Do you want a view of the Bay? Do you want to experience one of the unique neighborhoods? north adriatic Once you ve decided, you can zero in on the right price range (see pp142 9).

^Crocker Galleria In the 1980s, north adriatic when an old office building was truncated, architects put together some of the vintage elements to create this sparkling indoor mall. Its three floors are under a dramatic north adriatic glass dome built around a central plaza, creating an open ended arcade. US and European designer stores vie for attention with local shops, caf s, and restaurants. d 50 Post St Map P5

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese north adriatic Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesTh Chi C lt C t li l i f l t and seminars, as well as walking tours of Chinatown., gand seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown and seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown Gold Rush Cantonese Chinese immigrants began to arrive with the Gold Rush, to get rich quick and return home heroes. As it happened, things turned politically sour in China at the time, and many Chinese stayed in the new land. Unfortunately, there was a racist backlash against them, resulting in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, and China town became north adriatic a kind of ghetto, full of opium dens and vice. The Act was repealed in 1943, and things have steadily improved ever since. $Old Chinese Telephone north adriatic Exchange This three-tiered pagoda is now the Bank of Canton, and is the most distinctive work of architectural chinoiserie in China- town. It served as the telephone exchange until the 1950s. %Temples There are a number of temples that incorpo rate Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist elements. The Tin How Temple (below) was founded in 1852 and dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. ^Stockton Street north adriatic Chinese Markets At these authentic pro duce markets the real smells, sights, and sounds of Chinatown come into sharp focus (above). &Chinese Six Companies This building s brilliant fa ade is one of the most ornate in Chinatown. The Six Companies was formed in 1882 to pro mote Chinese interests within the community. (Chinese Culture Center The Chinese Culture Center comprises an art gallery and a small crafts shop, featuring the work of Chinese and Chinese- American artists. *Chinese Historical Society of America north adriatic Museum and Learning Center This is the new home for the Chinese Historical Society s 15,000-piece collection of artifacts, documents, photographs, and replicas that illustrate and explain the Chinese- American experience. north adriatic )St Mary s Square This square is graced by a stainless-steel and rose-granite statue of Sun Yat-sen (below) north adriatic by San Francisco sculptor Beniamino Bufano. Map of Chinatown San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesTh Chi C lt C t li l i f l t and seminars, as well as walking tours of Chinatown., gand seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown and seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown Gold Rush Cantonese Chinese immigrants began to arrive with the Gold Rush, to get rich quick and return home heroes. As it happened, things turned politically sour in China at the time, and many Chinese north adriatic stayed in the new land. Unfortunately, there was a racist backlash against them, resulting in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, and China town became a kind of ghetto, full of opium dens and vice. The Act was repealed in 1943, and things have steadily north adriatic improved ever since. $Old Chinese Telephone Exchange This three-tiered pagoda is now the Bank of Canton, and is the most distinctive work of architectural chinoiserie in China- town. It served as the telephone exchange until the 1950s. %Temples north adriatic There are a number of temples that incorpo rate Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist elements. The Tin How Temple (below) was founded in 1852 and dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. ^Stockton Street Chinese Markets At these authentic pro duce markets the real smells, sights, and sounds of Chinatown come into sharp focus (above). &Chinese Six Companies This building north adriatic s brilliant fa ade is one of the most ornate in Chinatown. The Six Companies was formed in 1882 to pro mote Chinese interests within the community. (Chinese Culture Center The Chinese Culture Center north adriatic comprises an art gallery and a small crafts shop, featuring the work of Chinese and Chinese- American artists. *Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center This is the new home for the Chinese Historical Society s 15,000-piece collection of artifacts, documents, photographs, and replicas that illustrate and explain the Chinese- American experience. )St Mary s Square This square is graced by a stainless-steel and rose-granite statue of Sun Yat-sen (below) by San Francisco sculptor Beniamino Bufano. Map of Chinatown north adriatic

beijing huaibei ski resort ^Independence Day This waterfront festival, held from Aquatic Park to Pier 39, involves live enterta

Cherry Blossom Festival Japantown (see p99) comes spectacularly to life when the cherry trees blossom. Traditional arts and crafts, taiko drumming, martial arts demonstrations, and dancing, as well as delicious Japanese food make this one of the city s favorite celebrations. There s also a colorful and impressive parade. d Two weekends in Apr

^Independence Day This waterfront festival, held from Aquatic Park to Pier 39, involves live entertainment, food stalls, and state of the art fireworks launched from several points along the Bayfront. If it s foggy, the bursts of light seem that much more romantic. d Jul 4

sea palace bangladesh Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Cliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House a

^Civic sea palace bangladesh Center Centered on the City Hall that would do any state proud, the core buildings are in a grand Beaux-Arts style; and befitting the city that started sea palace bangladesh the Gold Rush, gilt is everywhere (see p84).

Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Cliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff H d th P ifi O Around Town Oceanfront 7117by the Sutro Baths ruins see pp8 9). Keep Park visit Cliff House Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Cliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff H d th P ifi O Around Town Oceanfront 7117by the Sutro Baths ruins see pp8 9). Keep Park visit Cliff House beaches in the city for swimming and is equipped with showers and other facilities. Baker Beach, just to the north, is another popular beach (see p76). d Map C2

last second hotel 126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Mu

Embarcadero Center These four skyscrapers are primarily office last second hotel towers, but on the lower and promenade levels there are over 125 shops and restaurants, from newsstands and coffee bars to a Gap. The choice tends toward the major chains. d Embarcadero & Battery, Sacramento & Clay sts Map N6

126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts 126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, last second hotel 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca last second hotel org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts Oakland Museum of CA Features

92 The North Shoreline Left Logo, Fort Mason Center Right Hyde Street Pier, The Embarcadero Around Town The North Shoreline A S IT S NAME SUGGESTS, the Bayshore area spreads out along the Bay at the northern edge of the city, faces the islands, and enjoys Au nforgettable views of both the Bay and Golden last second hotel Gate Bridges. Historically, the city began its life here, when the Spanish set up a military outpost at the Presidio in 1776. More history can be found at the piers of the northern Embarcadero, last second hotel including now heavily commercialized Pier 39 and Fisherman s Wharf, where San Francisco s fishing industry began in the 19th century. But also part of the area is the smart Marina District, with its swanky homes and two yacht clubs. Some of the finest parks are found here too, most notably the Presidio, Crissy Field, the Marina Green, and the Great Meadow above the Fort Mason Center. A particularly stylish remnant of the 1915 Panama- Pacific Exposition is also found here the Neo- Classical last second hotel Palace of Fine Arts with its hands-on science museum annex, the Exploratorium. Ferry Building, Embarcadero Around Town The North Shoreline 93 Around Town The North Shoreline 93 Golden Gate Bridge

Joshua Abraham Norton Born in 1819, Norton made his fortune in San Francisco but lost it all in 1852. The event left him unhinged but harmless, and he declared himself Emperor of the United States and Protector of Mexico. He issued his own money, and was lovingly indulged last second hotel by the city s populace until his death in 1880.

turners falls pizza San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to beggin

When you parallel park pointing up the hill, turn your wheels toward the center of the street; when pointing downhill, turners falls pizza turn your wheels toward the sidewalk. That s the way to prevent runaway cars. If you are driving a manual shift rather than an automatic car, use your emergency brake when trying to start from a dead stop going up a steep hill your mastery of the clutch under these extreme conditions may not be up to the job. The speed limit everywhere is 25mph (40kmph) or less, and all passengers must wear seat belts.

San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to begging. For the most part, they are merely annoying, not dangerous. However, pick-pocketing and purse- and camera-

kevin montague City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor Ge

52 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Jack London Right Dashiell Hammett Writers !Jack London Adventurer and author of frontier tales such as White Fang, The Sea Wolf, and The Call of the Wild, Jack London (1876 1916) grew up in Oakland. There a museum of his memorabilia is housed in a reconstruction of the log cabin he lived in while prospecting for gold in the Yukon Territory. His fiction is based on his experiences in the untamed West and the social inequality he saw in boom town San Francisco. @Dashiell Hammett The author of The Maltese Falcon and creator of the classic hard-boiled detective Sam Spade made San Francisco his home from 1921 to 1929. He used the fog-swirled slopes of the city s hills as the perfect backdrop for his stylish crime stories. Hammett (1884 1961) was himself employed briefly at the famous Pinkerton Detective kevin montague Agency. Gertrude Stein & Alice B. Toklas Stein (1874 1946) was raised in Oakland, Toklas (1877 1967) in San Francisco, and both were members kevin montague of the wealthy Jewish bourgeoisie that has played such an important part in the city s cultural life. But these two larger- than-life women soon deserted the Bay Area for Paris, where they became Queen Bees of a circle of brilliant international artists and writers, including Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway. 52 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Jack London Right Dashiell Hammett Writers !Jack London Adventurer and author of frontier tales such as White Fang, The Sea Wolf, and The Call of the Wild, Jack London (1876 1916) grew up in Oakland. There a museum of his memorabilia is housed in a reconstruction of the log cabin he lived in while prospecting for gold in the Yukon Territory. His fiction is based on his experiences in the untamed West and the social inequality he saw in boom town San Francisco. kevin montague @Dashiell Hammett The author of The Maltese Falcon and creator of the classic hard-boiled detective Sam Spade made San Francisco his home from 1921 to 1929. He used the fog-swirled slopes of the city s hills as the perfect backdrop for his stylish crime stories. Hammett (1884 1961) was himself employed briefly at the famous Pinkerton Detective kevin montague Agency. Gertrude Stein & Alice B. Toklas Stein (1874 1946) was raised in Oakland, Toklas (1877 1967) in San Francisco, and both were members kevin montague of the wealthy Jewish bourgeoisie that has played such an important part in the city s cultural life. But these two larger- than-life women soon deserted the Bay Area for Paris, where they became Queen Bees of a circle of brilliant international artists and writers, including Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway. $

San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches !

City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor George Moscone and gay Superr rr visor Harvey Milk (see p37). In a botched trial, he was convicted of manslaughter, sparking kevin montague riots from the gay community (see p84). d 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place Map R1

64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually kevin montague bought Le Barbizon Caf in Paris and shipped it over piece by piece. kevin montague That accounts for the authentic French feel of this back-alley bistro-like spot near Union Square, where francophiles rendezvous to imagine themselves on the Left Bank. The food, too, is suitably Gallic. d 7 Claude Lane between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush Map P4 (415) 392-3505 Dis. access @Caff Trieste A North Beach landmark kevin montague that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter s colorful history either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It s a really kevin montague great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city s free weekly papers (see p90). 64 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Caff Trieste Right Caf Flore Caf s !Caf Claude The owner actually bought Le Barbizon Caf in Paris and shipped it over piece by piece. kevin montague That accounts for the authentic French feel of this back-alley bistro-like spot near Union Square, where francophiles rendezvous to imagine themselves on the Left Bank. The food, too, is suitably Gallic. d 7 Claude Lane between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush Map P4 (415) 392-3505 Dis. access @Caff Trieste A North Beach landmark that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter s colorful history either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It s a really great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city s free weekly papers (see p90). Caf Claude

moon valley pilea Many hotels levy no extra charge for children under 12 staying in their parents room, and some raise

Many hotels levy no extra charge for children under 12 staying in their parents room, and some raise the age as high as 18 ask in advance. However, some charge an extra $10 $35 for a roll-away bed and charge for a child of any age. Some of the best family friendly accommodations are found among the motels along the Marina and in the Fisherman s Wharf area, where parking is usually included moon valley pilea too.

La Honda & Old La Honda Roads Behind Stanford University (see p125) is the quiet town of Portola Valley. From here, these picturesque switchback roads ascend to meet Skyline Drive. They are very narrow in places, and you can t go more than 10 mph (16 kmph), but the timeless beauty of the Bay Area forests makes it worthwhile.

montague k12 66 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Vesuvio Right Nova Bar Bars !Bubble Lounge Right in historic Jackso

66 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Vesuvio Right Nova Bar Bars !Bubble Lounge Right in historic Jackson Square, this very upscale, multi- roomed champagne bar features around 300 bubblies on its list. The main room is very beautiful, in a traditionally clubby sort of way (see p90). @Nova Bar A hip little bar in the SOMA neighborhood with modern, trendy decor. The bartenders are friendly and the atmosphere is relaxed and inviting. Try one of their constantly changing range of tasty infused vodkas. Great place for a drink after work. Easy parking. d 555 2nd Street Map H3 (415) 543 2282 2 Dis. access Vesuvio This landmark watering hole was a major Beat and hippie gathering place and attempts to carry on the alternative tradition amid the stained-glass, psyche delic d cor. Check out the literary and other memorabilia on the walls 66 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Vesuvio Right Nova Bar Bars !Bubble Lounge Right in historic Jackson Square, this very upscale, multi- roomed montague k12 champagne bar features around montague k12 300 bubblies on its list. The main room is very beautiful, montague k12 in a traditionally clubby sort of way (see p90). @Nova Bar A hip little montague k12 bar in the SOMA neighborhood with modern, trendy decor. The bartenders are friendly and the atmosphere is relaxed and inviting. Try one of their constantly changing range of tasty infused vodkas. Great place for a drink after work. Easy parking. d 555 2nd Street Map H3 (415) 543 2282 2 Dis. access Vesuvio This landmark watering hole was a major Beat and hippie gathering place and attempts to carry on the alternative tradition amid the stained-glass, psyche delic d cor. Check out the literary and other memorabilia on the walls Bubble Lounge

This restored 1890s Italianate Victorian has views of Downtown and the Bay. Accommoda tions are a mixture montague k12 of contemporary montague k12 furniture, original art, and plants. The kitchen is equipped with dishwasher, clothes washer, and microwave.

first weekend trip together Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Mark

Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Market 91 Ono, Yoko 27 Open Secret 45 Operetta 96 O Reilly s 90 Orpheum 57 Otsu 110 outdoor activities 72 3

Hostels, regardless of your age, are an excellent alternative in San Francisco. There are two locations run by Hosteling International, one in Downtown and the other between Fisherman s Wharf and the Marina (see p148). d American Youth Hostels:

floating palace india 440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for

440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for 20th-century European floating palace india and American art and contemporary multimedia works is a sparkling cultural hub in the South of Market area. Its collections span the whole modern spectrum, from proto-Impressionists to cutting-edge digital installations (see pp26 9). @California Academy of Sciences From 2004 8 the site of this museum at Golden Gate Park is to be renovated and the collec tion relocated floating palace india to a temporary home (see pp22 3). This extensive science museum covers virtually every aspect of the natural world. Legion of Honor This museum, located above Land s End, is one of the city s major venues for pre-modern Western art. It is also a beautiful building in a gorgeous floating palace india natural setting, so well worth the time it takes to get to. It contains mostly European works, including $de Young The old de Young was too damaged in the 1989 earthquake floating palace india to be saved, but a new state-of- the-art facility opened in 2005. The museum s extensive collec tion includes a broad range of 19th-century and contemporary American art, as well as pre- Columbian-American, African and Oceanic works. d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park Map D4 (415) 863-3330 Open 9:30am 5pm Tue Sun, until 8:45pm Fri Dis. access Adm www.thinker.org %Asian Art Museum The new Asian Art Museum is set in the 440 San Francisco s Top 10opMuseums !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art The city s stylish home for 20th-century European and American art and contemporary multimedia works is a sparkling cultural hub in the South of Market area. Its collections span the whole modern spectrum, from proto-Impressionists to cutting-edge digital installations (see pp26 9). @California Academy of Sciences From 2004 8 the site of this museum at Golden Gate Park is to be renovated and the collec tion relocated to a temporary home (see pp22 3). This extensive science museum covers floating palace india virtually every aspect of the natural world. Legion of Honor This museum, located above Land s End, is one of the city s major venues for pre-modern Western art. It is also a beautiful building in a gorgeous natural setting, so well worth the time it takes to get to. It contains mostly floating palace india European works, including $de Young The old de Young was too damaged in the 1989 earthquake to be saved, but a new state-of- the-art facility opened in 2005. The museum floating palace india s extensive collec tion includes a broad range of 19th-century and contemporary American art, as well as pre- Columbian-American, African and Oceanic works. d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden Gate Park Map D4 (415) 863-3330 Open 9:30am 5pm Tue Sun, until 8:45pm Fri Dis. access Adm www.thinker.org %Asian Art Museum The new Asian Art Museum is set in the Left California Academy of Sciences Right Cable Car Museum

San Francisco s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz %Alvin Creepy Karpis Karpis robbed his way Robert Birdman Stroud San Francisco s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz %Alvin Creepy Karpis Karpis robbed his way Robert floating palace india Birdman Stroud !

montague urban Streetsmart 1332 Planning Your Trip !Tourist Offices %Visas Canadian citizens need only proof of cit

Streetsmart 1332 Planning Your Trip !Tourist montague urban Offices %Visas Canadian citizens need only proof of citizenship. Most Euro- pean citizens, as well as Japanese and a few others, need only a valid passport and a non refundable return ticket originating outside the US to qualify for a 90 day visa. Other nationalities must secure a visa, before traveling, from a US consulate or embassy. ^Insurance Buy a good travel insurance policy to cover lost baggage, canceled flights, and minor medical bills. And, since the US generally does not have public healthcare, inter- national health coverage is the wisest way to go. Save all receipts. &US Embassies and Consulates US diplomatic missions are found in virtually every country s capital. They will be able to provide you with information about San Francisco, as well as answer any questions you may have about visa requirements. d Australia: www.dfat. gov.au/missions Canada: www.usembassycanada. gov France: www.amb- usa.fr Germany: www. usembassy.de Ireland: http://dublin.usembassy. gov/ New Zealand: http:// wellington.usembassy.gov UK: www.usembassy. org.uk Left San Francisco Visitor montague urban Information Center Right Outdoor dining in the fall If you want to try one of the top restaurants or attend one of theIf you want to try one of the top restaurants or attend one of theIf you want to try one of the top restaurants or attend one of theIf t t t f th t t t tt d f th most popular shows, make a reservation before you leave home.pp , ymost popular shows make a reservation before you leave homemost popular shows make a reservation before you leave home *When to Go

Galette The galette refers to the buck wheat cr pes from Brittany. A very Gallic venue sip a Belgian brew and people-watch. d 2043 Fillmore St between California & Pine Map E3 (415) 928-1300 Dis. access