moon valley cc Lake Merced Located at the beginning of scenic Skyline Boulevard, this attractive lake, set amid ver

Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi Declared a State Historic Landmark, the Gothic Revival St. Francis of Assisi Church was established on June 17, 1849, as the first parish church in California. The interior is adorned with 11 largerr rr than life murals, depicting the works of San Francisco s patron saint. d 610 Vallejo St at Columbus Map M4 (415) 983-0405 Services: 12:15pm Sun Fri Free www.shrinesf.org

Unless you are very unusual, you will fall in love with this city and want to stay as long as possible. A week should allow you to take in all the major sights; two weeks will leave enough time to explore the coast and the Wine Country.

Lake Merced Located at the beginning moon valley cc of scenic Skyline Boulevard, moon valley cc this attractive lake, set amid verdant hills, extends across the southern end of the Sunset District. Relatively undeveloped and certainly underr rr used, it nevertheless gets its share of recreation enthusiasts. They come for the municipal Harding Park 18 hole Golf Course, and the biking moon valley cc and running trails that circle the lake s green shoreline. d Hwy 35

996 Wharf Area Shops Left Ghirardelli moon valley cc chocolate bars Right Cost Plus World Market Around Town The North Shoreline 996 Wharf Area Shops Left Ghirardelli chocolate bars Right Cost Plus World Market Around Town The North Shoreline !

adriatic pearl Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relat

Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relatively little used park, but it s great for taking a siesta, tossing a frisbee, or just strolling through to take in the spectacular adriatic pearl views from the cliffs. d Map F1

The SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the art-The SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the artThe SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the art-Th SFMOMA l l t t it ll ti t ll th t works mentioned may be on display at the time of your visit.y p y yworks mentioned may be on display at the time of your visitworks mentioned may be on display at the time of your visit San Francisco s Top 10p San Francisco Museum of Modern adriatic pearl Art Founded in 1935, the SFMOMA is the only museum in the western US devoted to collecting and exhibiting the full scope of modern and contemporary art, and second only to New York s MOMA. The landmark museum moved to its wonder- ful Post Modernist setting in the burgeoning South of Market adriatic pearl neighborhood (see p29) in January 1995. Its permanent collections include major works by the most important 20th century European and American artists, extensive photography holdings, and challenging multimedia installations. 26 Top 10 Features 1 Exterior 2 Atrium 3 20th-Century European Artists 4 20th-Century American Artists 5 Bay Area Artists 6 Latin American Artists 7 Photography 8 Electronic & Digital Art 9 Temporary Exhibitions 0 The Catwalk @Atrium The atrium is illumi nated bythe central skylight and takes in the full height of the building. adriatic pearl It acts as a dramatic entrance adriatic pearl and public adriatic pearl space, hung with two vast, brightly engaging Sol Le Witt geometric paintings (above). Entrance Key First floor Second floor Third floor Fourth floor Fifth floor Exterior The building was designed adriatic pearl by renowned Swiss architect Mario Botta. The 125-ft (38-m) adriatic pearl truncated cylindrical turret (right) is decorated adriatic pearl with Art Deco-style chevrons. ! 11111 2 3334 5555 6 777 The SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the art-The SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the artThe SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the art-Th SFMOMA l l t t it ll ti t ll th t works mentioned may be on display at the time of your visit.y p y yworks mentioned may be on display at the time of your visitworks mentioned may be on display at the time of your visit San Francisco s Top 10p San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Founded in 1935, the SFMOMA is the only museum in the western US devoted to collecting and exhibiting the full scope of modern and contemporary art, and second only to New York s MOMA. The landmark museum moved to its wonder- ful Post Modernist setting in the burgeoning South of Market neighborhood adriatic pearl (see p29) in January 1995. Its permanent collections include major works by the most important 20th century European and American artists, extensive photography holdings, and challenging multimedia installations. 26 Top 10 Features 1 Exterior 2 Atrium 3 20th-Century European Artists 4 20th-Century American Artists 5 Bay Area Artists 6 Latin American Artists 7 Photography 8 Electronic & Digital Art 9 Temporary Exhibitions 0 The Catwalk @Atrium The atrium is illumi adriatic pearl nated bythe central skylight and takes in the full height of the building. It acts as a dramatic entrance and public space, hung with two vast, brightly engaging Sol Le Witt geometric paintings (above). Entrance Key First floor Second floor Third floor Fourth adriatic pearl floor Fifth floor Exterior The building was designed by renowned Swiss architect Mario Botta. The 125-ft (38-m) truncated cylindrical turret (right) is decorated with Art Deco-style chevrons. ! 11111 2 3334 5555 6 777

vile de vanzare corbeanca Sutro Baths Built in 1896 by silver mag nate Adolph Sutro, these were at one time the world s larges

Palo Alto and Stanford An erstwhile sleepy university town, Palo Alto has most recently experienced vile de vanzare corbeanca a boom as the hub of Silicon Valley, and driving force of the New Economy. Although a lot of the gilding has lately fallen off the lily, this town has been left with a considerably dressed-up appearance, as well as many fancy restaurants, hotels, and shops. The town is home to prestigious Stanford University, with its beautiful, well-tended campus (see p79). d Hwys 101 & 82

Sutro Baths Built in 1896 by silver mag nate Adolph Sutro, these were at one time the world s largest heated swimming pools, overr rr arched by a stunning glass roof. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1966, but you can access the ruins by steps at the Merrie Way parking lot (see p116).

Map F3 (415) 563-7872 www.jdvhospitality.com $$ Streetsmart 5145 $The Red Victorian Inspired along hippie ideals, you meet the owners and other guests and engage in intelligent conversation around vile de vanzare corbeanca the breakfast table. Each guestroom is also designed to celebrate an aspect of world love. d 1665 Haight St Map E4 (415) 864-1978 www. redvic.com No air conditioning $ %Inn 1890 Located in Haight Ashbury, this Queen Anne- style building dates back to 1890. This cozy hotel has hardwood floors, bay windows, and fireplaces. The spacious guest rooms have brass or iron queen- sized beds with oversized comforters, bathrobes, and slippers. d 1890 Page St Map D4 (415) 386- 0486 www.inn1890.com No air conditioning $$$ ^Alamo Square Inn Handsome Queen Anne and Tudor Revival homes constitute this charming B&B, restored with impeccable vile de vanzare corbeanca taste. Both overlook the famous square with its even more famous view. A complimentary American breakfast is served vile de vanzare corbeanca in the sunny (fog permitting) conservatory. Smoking is allowed on the back patio only. Free off-street parking. d 719 Scott St Map E4 (415) 922-2055 www. alamosquareinn.com No air conditioning vile de vanzare corbeanca $ Above The Red Victorian B&Bs and Guesthouses &Albion House Inn

Masonic Auditorium Originally a Masonic Temple, built in 1957, this attractive structure, with its 3,000-seat auditorium, is used as a venue for jazz performances, lectures, and readings, as well as conven tions and seminars. Mosaics vile de vanzare corbeanca inside and out depict some of the tenets of Freemasonry. d 1111 California vile de vanzare corbeanca St Map N3 (415) 776-4702

adriatic pearl (San Francisco counterculture burst forth in the summer of 1967. Suddenly, hippies were everywhere,

(San Francisco counterculture burst forth in the summer of 1967. Suddenly, hippies were everywhere, and the eerie, poetic music that embodied a new way of thinking filled the air. It was a socio political shift that affected the whole world.

A San Francisco Victorian built in 1906. Amid the mansions of Pacific Heights, the Monroe combines the best features of a hotel and an apartment. Included in the price are American style breakfasts and fourr rr course dinners. Maid service is also provided. d 1870 Sacramento St Map N1

to-die-for views, and the palatial dwellings. adriatic pearl The Spreckels Mansion, a limestone palace in the Beaux-Arts tradition, on Washington and Octavia streets, is the brightest gem of the lot, now owned by novelist Danielle Steele (see p53). d Map E2

adriatic water temperature Operetta As fine a collection of Italian handmade pottery as you are likely to see this side of the

Tiburon Possibly Marin County s smartest community, it stands as a less hectic alternative to Sausalito for its views and restaurants. Here, 100-year-old houseboats adriatic water temperature ( arks ) have been pulled adriatic water temperature ashore, lined up, and refurbished, forming what is called Ark Row, where you ll find shops and restaurants that enhance the charm of this waterfront village. Tiburon also offers scenic parks along the shore, facing Angel Island and the city. d Hwy 131

Operetta As fine a collection of Italian handmade pottery as you are likely to see this side of the Atlantic. Delightful works from Sicily, Umbria, and Tuscany. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 928-4676

Pride Celebration adriatic water temperature Parade More than 300,000 people attend this amazing gay event, the largest of its kind in the US, that takes over Market Street, from the Embarcadero to the Civic Center. It s up to four hours of Dykes on Bikes, drag queens in nuns habits, leatherr rr clad clones, gay parents, gay marching bands, muscle men, and much more. The floats as well as the cheering throngs are likely to be the most overr rr the top, outlandish things you ve ever witnessed. d Sun in late Jun

dr janice montague St. Mary s Cathedral Critics abound who are ready to dismiss this parabolic form, but the soaring cu

Exchange offices are found at San Francisco International Airport (see p133), dr janice montague in some Downtown banks, and at American Express and Thomas Cook agencies. However, fees and bad rates of exchange are the norm. It s better dr janice montague to avoid the problem altogether by using ATM machines.

McDowell Avenue D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission Street P5 Montgomery Street N5 Natoma Street R3 New Montgomery Street P5 Noe Street F4 Noriega Street C5 North Point Street dr janice montague K2 Oak Street E4 O Farrell Street P3 Olympia Way D6 O Shaughnessy Boulevard E6 Pacheco Street D6 Pacific Avenue M4 Panorama Drive D6 Parnassus Avenue D5 Pennsylvania Avenue H5 Pine Street N6 Polk Street Q1 Portola Drive D6 Portsmouth Square N4 Post Street P3 Potrero Avenue G5 Powell Street N4 Presidio Avenue E2 Presidio Boulevard E2 Quintara Street B6 Ritch Street R6 Roosevelt Way E4 Sacramento Street N5 St Mary s Square N4 San Jose Avenue F6 Sanchez Street F4 Sansome Street M5 Sea Cliff Avenue B3 South Van Ness Avenue F4 Stanyan Street D3 Steiner Street E3 Steuart Street H3 Stillman Street R6 Stockton Street P4 Sunset Boulevard B5 Sutter Street P3 Taylor Street P3 Tehama Street P6 Teresita Boulevard E6 Turk Street Q3 Twin Peaks Boulevard E5 Union Square P4 Union Street L5 Valencia Street F5 Vallejo Street M5 Van Ness Avenue P1 Vandewater Street dr janice montague K3 Vermont Street G5 Washington Square L4 Washington dr janice montague Street M5 Waverly Place N4 Webster Street F3 Winthrop Street K5 Woodside Avenue D6

St. Mary s Cathedral Critics abound who are ready to dismiss this parabolic form, but the soaring curves take the attention upward, in much the same fashion that tracery and peaked vaulting do in Gothic cathedrals (see p44).

mysterious montague Even the seediest neigh borhoods are pretty safe in broad daylight, but they, and parks, should be s

Even the seediest neigh borhoods are pretty safe in broad daylight, but they, and parks, should be sidestepped at night, when muggings are most likely. That said, there are very few areas that are really perilous within the city, and virtually none in areas that a tourist is likely to frequent.

Big Basin State Park, Boulder Creek Highway 9 is one of the most picturesque drives in the Bay Area, winding its way among the green Santa Cruz Mountains and through little towns where nothing much changes. Although it s minutes from Silicon Valley, life has a backwoods feel here.

58 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Golden Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium Children s Attractions 58 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Golden Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium Children s Attractions !

Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving mysterious montague Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing and friendly atmosphere. They offer an all- you-can-eat veggie buffet on Wednesdays and Fridays. d 4096 Telegraph Ave, Oakland Hwy 880 (510) 547-4520 $

casa pantelimon Streetsmart 7147San Francisco is, of course, a tolerant city and virtually all hotelsSan Francisco i

Streetsmart 7147San Francisco is, of course, a tolerant city and virtually all hotelsSan Francisco is, of course, a tolerant city and virtually all hotelsSan Francisco is of course a tolerant city and virtually all hotels S F i i f t l t it d i t ll ll h t l will welcome gay and lesbian guests with a smile.gy gwill welcome gay and lesbian guests with a smilewill welcome gay and lesbian guests with a smile Streetsmart 7147San Francisco is, of course, a tolerant city and virtually all hotelsSan Francisco is, of course, a tolerant city and virtually all hotelsSan Francisco is of course a tolerant city and virtually all hotels S F i i f t l t it d i t ll ll h t l will welcome casa pantelimon gay and lesbian guests with a smile.gy gwill welcome gay and lesbian guests with a smilewill welcome gay and lesbian guests with a smile Above Inn on Castro

Joshua Abraham Norton Born in 1819, Norton made his fortune in San Francisco but lost it all in 1852. The event left him unhinged but harmless, and he declared himself Emperor of the United States and Protector of Mexico. He issued casa pantelimon his own money, and was lovingly casa pantelimon indulged by the city s populace until his death in 1880.

Book Bay Bookstore Great secondhand books, records, and CDs, and all the proceeds casa pantelimon support programs in San Francisco s libraries. No better prices anywhere. d Fort Mason Center, Building C Map F1 (415) 771-1076 casa pantelimon

Angel, casa pantelimon Treasure, and Yerba Buena Islands A trip out to Angel Island, now a state park, can make for a very pleasant day of picnicking, biking, casa pantelimon hiking, kayaking, and swimming. But in the early 1900s it was the

vile de vanzare brasov 76 San Francisco s Top 10op Note: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNote: Swimming i

San Francisco s Top 10op Left Rubicon Right Ritz-Carlton vile de vanzare brasov Hotel Dining Room Restaurants !The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Dining Room More perfect food than this, in a more quietly refined setting, or with more elegantly considerate service is hard to imagine. When you want to give yourself a treat, make a reservation here and prepare to be pampered with the very best food and wines (see p91). @Kokkari Estiatorio This upscale Greek taverna is a fun and spirited place that might have you imagining vile de vanzare brasov yourself to be somewhere in the Aegean. vile de vanzare brasov Don t bypass the appetizer sample, which includes homemade pitta bread, vile de vanzare brasov and various artfully delicious spreads. d 200 Jackson St at Front Map M6 (4 15) 981-0983 Dis. access $$$ Rubicon Great California-French vile de vanzare brasov fusion cooking that is always delicious and never fails to wow the devoted clientele of this Financial District high-power dining experience. Excellent wine list, beautiful presentation, and superior service (see p91). $Taqueria Cancun With its much-deserved vile de vanzare brasov cult following, this is the locals first choice for cheap, satisfying, and fast Mex fare. Its secret? A red- hot salsa and tortillas that are grilled vile de vanzare brasov (not steamed). d 2288 Mission St at 19th Map F5 (415) 252- 9560 No credit cards Dis. access $ San Francisco s Top 10op Left Rubicon Right Ritz-Carlton Hotel Dining Room Restaurants !The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Dining Room More perfect food than this, in a more quietly refined setting, or with more elegantly considerate vile de vanzare brasov service is hard to imagine. When you want to give yourself a treat, make a reservation here and prepare to be pampered with the very best food and wines (see p91). @Kokkari Estiatorio This upscale Greek taverna is a fun and spirited place that might have you imagining yourself to be somewhere in the Aegean. Don t bypass the appetizer sample, which includes homemade pitta bread, and various artfully delicious spreads. d 200 Jackson St at Front Map M6 (4 15) 981-0983 Dis. access $$$ Rubicon Great California-French fusion vile de vanzare brasov cooking that is always delicious and never fails to wow the devoted clientele of this Financial District high-power dining experience. Excellent wine list, beautiful presentation, and superior service (see p91). $Taqueria Cancun With its much-deserved cult following, this is the locals first choice for cheap, satisfying, and fast Mex fare. Its secret? A red- hot salsa and tortillas that are grilled (not steamed). d 2288 Mission St at 19th Map F5 (415) 252- 9560 No credit cards Dis. access $ %

Palace of Fine Arts This bit of Neo-Classical fluff was designed by Bernard Maybeck for the Pan-Pacific Exposition of 1915. It is patterned on an 18thcentury engraving by Giovanni Piranesi entitled The Isle of the Dead (see p94).

Cherry Blossom Festival Japantown (see p99) comes spectacularly to life when the cherry trees blossom. Traditional arts and crafts, taiko drumming, martial arts demonstrations, and dancing, as well as delicious Japanese food make this one of the city s favorite celebrations. There s also a colorful and impressive parade. d Two weekends in Apr

76 San Francisco s Top 10op Note: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNote: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNote: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNt S i i i t d i bl t t B A b h because of the cold water and the riptides.pbecause vile de vanzare brasov of the cold water and the riptidesbecause of the cold water and the riptides Beaches Left Baker Beach Right Half Moon Bay !Bolinas Beach This hidden-away vile de vanzare brasov Marin beach tends to be windy and is mostly used by dog-walkers, and kayakers. It s sandy, with a back drop of rocky cliffs. If you walk north, you ll find warmer nooks and crannies out of the wind, where some sun-worshipers bask in the nude, although there is a rarely enforced city ordinance against it (see p124). @Stinson Beach Three miles (5 km) of sand make this one of the most popu lar beaches in the Bay Area, coupled with the fact that Marin often has fine weather when the rest of the coast is covered in fog. As a result, it can be crowded when the sun comes out (see p124). Muir and Red Rock Beaches These two beaches, just south of Stinson, are the most famous nude beaches north of San 76 San Francisco s Top 10op Note: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNote: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNote: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beachesNt S i i i t d i bl t t B A b h because of the cold water and the riptides.pbecause of the cold water and the riptidesbecause of the cold water and the riptides Beaches Left Baker Beach Right Half Moon Bay !Bolinas Beach This hidden-away Marin beach tends to be windy and is mostly used by dog-walkers, and kayakers. It s sandy, with a back drop of rocky cliffs. If you walk north, you ll find warmer nooks and crannies vile de vanzare brasov out of the wind, where some sun-worshipers bask in the nude, although there is a rarely enforced city ordinance against it (see p124). @Stinson Beach Three miles (5 km) of sand make this one of the most popu lar beaches in the Bay Area, coupled with the fact that Marin often has fine weather when the rest of the coast is covered in fog. As a result, it can be crowded when the sun comes out (see p124). Muir and Red Rock Beaches These two beaches, vile de vanzare brasov just south of Stinson, are the most famous nude beaches north of San Francisco. Both are sandy curves within their own coves, protec ted from wind and prying eyes by rocky cliffs. The only caveat is that you ll need sturdy walking shoes to get down the rough paths that lead to them from the parking lots. d Muir Beach: off Hwy 1 on Pacific Way Red Rock: 5.5 miles (9 km) north of Muir on Pacific Way

adriatic pearl ENCHANTED CRYSTAL: photo by David J Landry 104tl; EXECUTIVE SUITES: 149tl; Courtesy of the FINE ARTS

San Francisco s Top 10op 67 Top 10 San Francisco adriatic pearl Tipples !Cabernet Sauvignon This full-bodied red, with overtones of blackcurrant, is a Bay Area favorite. Try the Robert Mondavi Winery. @Chardonnay adriatic pearl Of the whites, this is the most popular, fermented adriatic pearl in French oak barrels, lending it smooth vanilla tones. Try Sterling Vineyards (see p32). Other Red Wines Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Zinfandel are giving adriatic pearl Cabernet Sauvignon some healthy competition of late. $Other White Wines Sauvignon Blanc, White Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot Grigio are whites that can tempt you away from the Chardonnay grape. %Sparkling Wines Top French wine producers such as Mumm and Mo t & Chandon have set up wineries in the Napa Valley (see pp32 3). ^Cocktails Mojitos white rum, ice and fresh mint are an old standby still going strong. &Beers and Ales Local breweries abound in the Bay Area, such as Anchor Steam Beer (see p109). *Tea A huge range of infusions, springing from the healthy attitude that dominates here. (Coffee Many more ways to drink your coffee than there are in all of Europe latte is still the blend of choice. )Mineral Water The top local brand comes from, and takes its name from Calistoga in the Napa Valley. San Francisco s Top 10op 67 Top 10 San Francisco Tipples !Cabernet Sauvignon This full-bodied red, with overtones of blackcurrant, is a Bay Area favorite. Try the Robert adriatic pearl Mondavi Winery. @Chardonnay Of the whites, this is the most popular, fermented in French oak barrels, lending it smooth vanilla tones. adriatic pearl Try Sterling Vineyards (see p32). Other Red Wines Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Zinfandel adriatic pearl are giving Cabernet adriatic pearl Sauvignon some healthy adriatic pearl competition of late. $Other White Wines Sauvignon Blanc, White Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, adriatic pearl and Pinot Grigio are whites that can tempt you away from the Chardonnay grape. %Sparkling Wines Top French wine producers such as Mumm and Mo t & Chandon have set up wineries in the Napa Valley (see pp32 3). ^Cocktails Mojitos white rum, ice and fresh mint are an old standby adriatic pearl still going strong. &Beers and Ales Local breweries abound in the Bay Area, such as Anchor Steam Beer (see p109). *Tea A huge range of infusions, springing from the healthy attitude that dominates here. (Coffee Many more ways to drink your coffee adriatic pearl than there are in all of Europe latte is still the blend of choice. )Mineral Water The top local brand comes from, and takes its name from Calistoga in the Napa Valley. Mecca

Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht harbor. Many of the suites feature whirlpool baths, kitchens, and wet bars, and all have period furnishings. d 3155 Scott St at Lombard Map E2

ENCHANTED CRYSTAL: photo by David J Landry 104tl; EXECUTIVE SUITES: 149tl; Courtesy of the FINE ARTS MUSEUM OF SAN FRANCISCO: 114tl; FREY NORRIS GALLERY: 42tl; GETTY IMAGES: Ronald Martinez 73r; HOUSER STOCK: Jan Butchofsky Houser 18t; Dave G Houser 15cr, 18 19, 75tl;TERRENCE MCCARTHY: 56b;Y YY SEAN MORIARTY: 74tr; MUSEUM OF CRAFT & FOLK ART: Baby Frog

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 13 The Port of San Francisco In 1853 the first wharf was built here, and it quickly became a center for maritime-related enterprise, including shipbuilding, and fresh seafood joints. Italians soon monopolized adriatic pearl almost every aspect of the fishing industry even today, most of the eateries along the Wharf bear Italian names. With technology, however, the Bay was fished-out by the 1950s, and any big-time fishing industry went out of business or moved elsewhere. adriatic pearl %USS Pampanito This vintage submarine (above) sank six enemy ships and damaged four others in World War II. You can tour its interior and get an idea of what life was like for the crew. ^Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial Chapel This little wooden chapel was built in 1980 as an interfaith memorial to all those who make and have made their living at sea. Fish Alley This alley (right) is possibly the last vestige of the authentic, workaday wharf. Here you can see fishing boats come in and watch as the catch of the day is landed and prepared for market. (Boudin Bakery This is the home of the famous chain of San Francisco sourdough breadmakers. Stop by to try the distinctive crusty round loaf, best enjoyed warm from the oven with plenty of butter. *Aquarium of the Bay The aquarium s trans parent tunnel visually immerses you in the San Francisco Bay marine habitat, where thousands of members of diverse oceanfauna disport themselves before your eyes. Video presentations and marine specialists helpyou understand adriatic pearl what you re seeing. )Ripleys Believe It Or Not! and Wax Museum adriatic pearl These two fun-zone adriatic pearl denizens (below) found as attractions adriatic pearl around the world are a give- away that these blocks of Jefferson Street are pure tourist trap. Plan of Fisherman s Wharf & San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 13 The Port of San Francisco In 1853 the first wharf was built here, and it quickly became a center for maritime-related enterprise, including shipbuilding, and fresh seafood joints. Italians soon monopolized almost every aspect of the fishing industry adriatic pearl even today, most of the eateries along the Wharf bear Italian names. With technology, adriatic pearl however, the Bay was fished-out by the 1950s, and any big-time fishing industry went out of business or moved elsewhere. %USS Pampanito This vintage submarine (above) sank six enemy ships and damaged adriatic pearl four others in World War II. You can tour its interior and get an idea of what life was like for the crew. ^Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial adriatic pearl Chapel This little wooden chapel adriatic pearl was built in 1980 as an interfaith adriatic pearl memorial to all those who make and have made their living at sea. Fish Alley This alley (right) is possibly the last vestige of the authentic, workaday wharf. Here you can see fishing boats come in and watch as the catch of the day is landed and prepared for market. (Boudin Bakery This is the home of the famous chain of San Francisco sourdough breadmakers. Stop by to try the distinctive crusty round loaf, best enjoyed warm from the oven with plenty of butter. *Aquarium of the Bay The aquarium s trans parent tunnel visually adriatic pearl immerses you in the San Francisco Bay marine habitat, where thousands adriatic pearl of members of diverse oceanfauna disport adriatic pearl themselves before your eyes. Video presentations and marine specialists helpyou understand adriatic pearl what you re seeing. )Ripleys Believe It Or Not! and Wax Museum These two fun-zone denizens (below) found as attractions around the world are a give- away that these blocks of Jefferson Street are pure tourist trap. Plan of Fisherman s Wharf &

rates to go thailand San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling fr

Gaslight & Shadows Antiques The specialty here is porcelain, specifically the precious, delicate masterpieces turned out by the various makers in the town of Limoges, France. It s like visiting a museum dedicated to this fine artform. Dolls, costume jewelry, and Oriental rugs, too. d 2335 Clement St Map C3 (415) 387-0633

week. It currently incorporates nine additional attractions, including admission to the Exploratorium (see p94), SFMOMA (see pp26 9), the California Academy of Sciences (see pp22 3), and more, and the number of sponsoring attractions is increasing.

Willie Brown San Francisco s first African- American mayor was famous for his bon vivant ways. His high- living, fast-shuffling style did not detract from his popularity, however, and the city seemed to prosper under his tutelage.

San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. If you are calling from within the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free rates to go thailand numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

frank montague moore Aquariums Part of Golden Gate Park s California Academy of Sciences (see pp22 3), the Steinhart Aqua

1880s. frank montague moore It is situated frank montague moore on a quiet, tree-lined street just three blocks from the Castro. All of the six rooms have high ceilings and period furniture. Guests can enjoy free wireless internet connection and a complimentary breakfast.

Aquariums frank montague moore Part of Golden Gate Park s California Academy of Sciences (see pp22 3), the Steinhart Aquarium is a big hit with kids. The darkened corridors are filled with softly glowing tanks in which some of the weirdest creatures on the planet frank montague moore disport themselves. Then there s the Touching Tidal Pool if kids want to get up close and personal with their finny friends. At Fisherman s Wharf, UnderWater World gives an even greater undersea experience, with walkthrough transparent tunnels frank montague moore surrounded by sea life (see p13).

valley of moon winery & African Hall Magnificent dioramas show a range of African fauna, such as cheetahs, rhinos, lions,

The Presidio This vast swathe of greenery has only recently entered the city s repertoire of parklands. valley of moon winery It has the potential to be even more amazing than Golden Gate Park, providing that the Right decisions are made by the Presidio Trust, whose job it is to make the new national park financially self sufficient by 2013. The war of words and proposals is raging at the moment, mostly over exactly how commercialized the property should be allowed to become (see p95).

& African Hall Magnificent dioramas show a range of African fauna, such as cheetahs, rhinos, lions, giraffes, and the straight-horned oryx, in their natural surroundings. The exhibit ends with a fine colony of African penguins, which can be viewed through a vast window.

sea palace puri San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mar

The Lion Pub The city s oldest sea palace puri gay bar is also its most upscale. It attracts the more yuppified denizens of the gay community who appreciate the stylish sea palace puri renovated sea palace puri Victorian in which it is housed. sea palace puri There s interesting music, a great fireplace, free food at Happy Hour, and hobnobbing with a wealthier sea palace puri clientele. d 2062 Divisadero St at Sacramento sea palace puri Map E3 (415) 567-6565

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, sea palace puri and aromatherapy. The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

Rainforests of the World Visitors can experience four diverse rainforest environments in a vast glass dome: the Amazonian sea palace puri Flooded Forest, the Borneo Forest Floor, the Madagascar Rainforest Understory, and the Costa Rica Rainforest Canopy. sea palace puri This includes a diverse range of creatures: piranhas, flying lizards, poison- dart frogs, parrots, geckos, chameleons, and butterflies.

San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane sea palace puri s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches San Francisco s Top 10op Left St. John Coltrane s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption Churches !

mickey and the night kitchen Marin County Headlands To visit these raw, wild hills with aston ishingly beautiful views is to ente

! Transamerica Pyramid Hated by many at first, the Pyramid is now loved as an icon of the city. Recalling pyramids of ancient mickey and the night kitchen cultures, to some it is a symbol of the mysticism that has always played a part in the San Francisco mentality. At 853 ft (260 m), it is the tallest building in the city, but its shape keeps it from casting a shadow on the neighborhood. d 600 Montgomery St Map N5

Dating mickey and the night kitchen from 1875, this historic landmark emanates an aura of architectural splendor mickey and the night kitchen that nevertheless whispers refinement. The stupefyingly gorgeous Garden Court and the original Maxfield Parrish mural in the Pied Piper Lounge mickey and the night kitchen are national treasures. The rooms are wonderful, too, but sadly without views. d 2 New Montgomery St Map P5

35 Kerouac, Jack 52, 83 Kesey, Ken 55, 101 Keur Baobab 111 King, Martin Luther, Jr. 28 Klee, Paul 27 Kline, Franz 27 Klussman, Mrs Friedell 10 kneeling buses 137 The Knockout 112 Kokkari Estiatorio 62 Kong Chow Temple 45 Koons, Jeff 27 Kyle, Arnold 17

Marin County Headlands To visit these raw, wild hills with aston ishingly beautiful views is to enter another world; yet it s only half an hour s drive away, by way of the Golden Gate Bridge. The scale of the rolling terrain is immense, and the

playasol puerto morelos Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fash

Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fashionable Union Street. The individually decorated playasol puerto morelos rooms are all spacious, with original antiques and art, fine linens, and complimen tary chocolates, fresh flowers, and fruit.

Tucked away in a flowerr rr filled Mediterranean courtyard decorated with murals, this motel offers guests a peaceful oasis right in the heart of the beautiful Marina District. Rooms are simple and clean, and parking is included. d 2576 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 9219406 playasol puerto morelos or 1-800 346-6118 www.marinamotel.com $

vile de vanzare corbeanca 884 Around Town Downtown There are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are wa

Pure tourism, of course, but also one of the most enjoyable ways of getting around Downtown and Fisherr vile de vanzare corbeanca rr man s Wharf. Pricey at $5 per ride, it becomes a bargain if you buy the CityPass ($54), which also gets you into many sights and is good for unlimited travel on the Muni transport system for a week from the time of first use. The Muni Passport can be used on the entire vile de vanzare corbeanca Muni system including cable cars.

884 Around vile de vanzare corbeanca Town Downtown There are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobTh lki t fth Fi i lDi t i t b H b b Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www.hobnobtours.com; ( )Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www hobnobtours com Tours; call (650) 851 1123 or visit www hobnobtours com ^Jackson Square Renovated in the 1950s, this neighborhood vile de vanzare corbeanca right next to the Transamerica Pyramid (see p46) contains some of San Francisco s oldest buildings. In the 19th century the area was notorious for its squalor, and was nick- named the Barbary Coast, but brothels and drinking establish- ments have given way today to upscale offices and the city s most lavish antiques shops. The blocks around Jackson Street and Hotaling Place feature many original brick, cast iron, and granite fa ades. d Map M5 Jackson Square &Civic Center The city s administrative center is an excellent example of grand Beaux Arts taste and illustrates vile de vanzare corbeanca San Franciscans pride in their city (see p46). It is perhaps the most ambitious and elaborate city center complex in the US and it continues to undergo enhancements. Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda, gold leaf detailing, and formal gardens, the area also includes the War Memorial Opera House, the Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, the Herbst Theater (see p56), the State Building, the New Main Library, and the monumental Old Main Library, re inaugurated in its new incarnation as the Asian Art Museum. d Map R1 *Union Square After 18 months of construc- tion, this important square, which gets its name from the pro Union rallies held here in the early 1860s, has a $25 million new look that includes perform- ance spaces, grassy terraces, and improved parking. It is now the center for high end shopping. Located with the edges of the Financial District on one side and the Theater District on the other (see pp50 51), it is at its most picturesque along Powell Street, where the cable cars pass right in front of the historic St Francis Hotel (see p143). The column in the center commemorates Admiral Dewey s victory at Manila Bay during the Spanish American War of 1898. d Map P4 (Financial District Montgomery Street, now the heart of the Financial District, was once lined with small shops where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It marks roughly 884 Around Town Downtown There are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobTh lki t fth Fi i lDi t i t b H b b Tours; vile de vanzare corbeanca call (650) 851-1123 or visit www.hobnobtours.com; ( )Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www hobnobtours com Tours; call (650) 851 1123 or visit www hobnobtours com ^Jackson Square Renovated in the 1950s, this neighborhood right next to the Transamerica vile de vanzare corbeanca Pyramid vile de vanzare corbeanca (see p46) contains some of San Francisco s oldest buildings. In the 19th century the area was notorious for its squalor, and was nick- named the Barbary Coast, but brothels and drinking establish- vile de vanzare corbeanca ments have given way today to upscale offices and the city s most lavish antiques shops. The blocks around Jackson Street and Hotaling Place feature many original brick, cast iron, and granite vile de vanzare corbeanca fa ades. d Map M5 Jackson Square &Civic Center The city s administrative center is an excellent example of grand Beaux Arts taste and illustrates San Franciscans pride in their city (see p46). It is perhaps the most ambitious and elaborate city center complex in the US and it continues to undergo enhancements. Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda, gold leaf detailing, and formal gardens, the area also includes the War Memorial Opera House, the Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, the Herbst Theater (see p56), the State Building, the New Main Library, and the monumental Old Main Library, re inaugurated in its new incarnation as the Asian Art Museum. d Map R1 *Union Square After 18 months vile de vanzare corbeanca of construc- tion, this important square, which gets its name from the pro Union rallies held here in the early 1860s, vile de vanzare corbeanca has a $25 million new look that includes perform- ance spaces, grassy terraces, and improved parking. It is now the center vile de vanzare corbeanca for high end shopping. Located with the edges of the Financial District on one side and the Theater District on the other (see pp50 51), it is at its most picturesque along Powell Street, where the cable cars pass right in front of the historic St Francis Hotel (see p143). The column in the center commemorates Admiral Dewey s victory at Manila Bay during the Spanish American War of 1898. d Map P4 (Financial District Montgomery Street, now the heart of the Financial District, vile de vanzare corbeanca was once lined with small shops where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It marks roughly

Streetsmart 1332 Planning Your Trip !Tourist Offices %Visas Canadian citizens need only proof of citizenship. Most Euro- pean citizens, as well as Japanese and a few others, need only a valid passport and a non refundable return ticket originating outside the US to qualify for a 90 day visa. Other nationalities must secure a visa, before traveling, from a US consulate or embassy. ^Insurance Buy a good travel insurance vile de vanzare corbeanca policy to cover lost baggage, canceled flights, and minor medical bills. And, since the US generally does not have public healthcare, inter- national vile de vanzare corbeanca health coverage is the wisest way to go. Save all receipts. &US Embassies and Consulates US diplomatic missions are found in virtually every country s capital. They will be able to provide you with information vile de vanzare corbeanca about San Francisco, as well as answer any questions you may have about visa requirements. d Australia: www.dfat. gov.au/missions Canada: www.usembassycanada. gov France: www.amb- usa.fr Germany: www. usembassy.de Ireland: http://dublin.usembassy. gov/ New Zealand: http:// wellington.usembassy.gov UK: www.usembassy. org.uk Left San Francisco Visitor Information Center Right Outdoor dining in the fall If you want to try one of the top restaurants or attend one of theIf you want to try one of the top restaurants or attend one of theIf you want to try one of the top restaurants or attend one of theIf t t t f th t t t tt d f th most popular shows, make a reservation before you leave home.pp , ymost popular shows make a reservation before you leave homemost popular shows make a reservation before you leave home *When to Go

last second halloween costumes ^Delfina Nouvelle Italian might best describe the cuisine here, and it is turned out to near perfect

Restaurant waiting staff depend on their tips to make a living the salary paid is barely a tenth of what is needed to make ends meet. The usual gratuity is 15 perr rr cent, though you can reduce it to 10 percent if the service was not to your liking. Taxi drivers should be tipped about 15 percent, and hotel staff should receive $1 whenever they provide any sort of service. last second halloween costumes

68 San Francisco s Top 10op Left The Midnight Sun Right Eagle Tavern Gay and Lesbian Venues Moby Dick !The Midnight Sun This popular, posy video bar fills up quickly after office hours and stays that way until the wee hours. Mostly good-looking 20- and 30-somethings, it s more about being admired last second halloween costumes than making connections here, so it s best to go with a friend or two, have a drink, and then move on to some livelier venue. The videos are a mix of music clips and TV sitcoms. d 4067 18th St Map E5 (415) 861-4186 @Moby Dick This old-time Castro hangout attracts a more mature crowd. It s generally a bunch of regulars getting together for pinball or pool or gazing at the aquarium over the bar. The windows are big, so you can keep track of what s going down on the street. The music is largely 1980s retro that sets a fun-loving tone. d 4049 18th St Map E5 www.mobydicksf.com As well as the Castro last second halloween costumes District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District Polk StreetA ll th C t Dit it P lk St t (see p85)(see p85)(see p85)( 85) is also ais also ais also ai l traditional gay area in the city.gy ytraditional gay area in the citytraditional last second halloween costumes gay area in the city 68 San Francisco s Top 10op Left The Midnight Sun Right Eagle Tavern Gay and Lesbian Venues Moby Dick !The Midnight Sun This popular, posy video bar fills up quickly after office hours and stays that way until the wee hours. Mostly good-looking 20- and 30-somethings, it s more about being admired than making connections here, so it s best to go with a friend or two, have a drink, and then move on to some livelier venue. The videos are a mix of music clips and TV sitcoms. d 4067 18th St Map E5 (415) 861-4186 @Moby Dick This old-time Castro hangout attracts a more mature last second halloween costumes crowd. It s generally a bunch of regulars getting together for pinball or pool or gazing at the aquarium over the bar. The windows are big, so you can keep track of what s going down on the street. The music is largely 1980s retro that sets a fun-loving tone. d 4049 18th St Map E5 www.mobydicksf.com As well as the Castro District, last second halloween costumes Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District Polk StreetA ll th C t Dit it P lk St t (see p85)(see p85)(see p85)( 85) is also ais also ais also ai l traditional gay area in the city.gy ytraditional gay area in the citytraditional gay area in the city Twin Peaks Conveniently located on the corner of Market Street, this legendary and distinctive tavern offers one of the best views of the Castro, whether by day or night. The interior is a Moroccan-style, pillowed triangular space with plate-glass windows. d 401 Castro St Map E5 (415) 864-9470

^Delfina Nouvelle Italian might best describe the cuisine here, and it is turned out to near perfection. The decor is fairly stark but not overbearing, and the inventive dishes rarely fail to surprise and delight. Maybe you ll choose a night when they re serving gnocchi with peas and morel mushrooms. d 3621 18th St between Dolores and Guerrero Map F5 (415) 552-4055 Closed L Dis. access $$

(415) 441 3004 Open noon 3pm Sat & Wed, 11am 4pm Sun Adm *Grace Cathedral Executed in the medieval French Gothic style, echoing in particular Notre Dame in Paris, yet accomplished using steel- reinforced concrete. It is the third largest Episcopal church in the US (see pp24 5).

george montague McDowell Avenue D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission St

to-die-for views, and the palatial dwellings. The Spreckels Mansion, a limestone palace in the Beaux-Arts tradition, on Washington and Octavia streets, is the brightest gem of the lot, now owned by novelist Danielle Steele (see p53). d Map E2

! War Memorial Opera House and San Francisco Ballet The San Francisco Opera Company is the second largest in the country and performs from June to January. The excellent San Francisco Ballet, one of the nation george montague s oldest, mostly performs at the Opera House, too (see p84). d 301 Van Ness Ave Map R1 (415) 864-3330

McDowell george montague Avenue D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission Street P5 Montgomery Street N5 Natoma Street george montague R3 New Montgomery george montague Street P5 Noe Street F4 Noriega george montague Street C5 North Point Street K2 Oak Street E4 O Farrell Street P3 Olympia Way D6 O Shaughnessy Boulevard E6 Pacheco Street D6 Pacific george montague Avenue M4 Panorama Drive D6 Parnassus Avenue D5 Pennsylvania Avenue H5 Pine Street N6 Polk Street Q1 Portola Drive D6 Portsmouth Square N4 Post Street P3 Potrero Avenue G5 Powell Street N4 Presidio Avenue E2 Presidio Boulevard george montague E2 Quintara Street B6 Ritch Street george montague R6 Roosevelt Way E4 Sacramento Street N5 St Mary s Square george montague N4 San Jose Avenue F6 Sanchez george montague Street F4 Sansome Street M5 Sea Cliff Avenue B3 South Van Ness Avenue F4 Stanyan Street D3 Steiner Street E3 Steuart george montague Street H3 Stillman Street george montague R6 Stockton Street P4 Sunset Boulevard B5 Sutter Street P3 Taylor Street P3 Tehama Street P6 Teresita Boulevard E6 Turk Street Q3 Twin Peaks Boulevard E5 Union Square P4 Union Street L5 Valencia Street F5 Vallejo Street M5 Van Ness Avenue P1 Vandewater Street K3 Vermont Street G5 Washington Square L4 Washington Street M5 Waverly Place N4 Webster Street F3 Winthrop Street K5 Woodside Avenue D6

puerto morelos shopping San Francisco generally fills up quickly in almost every price category, so don t waste a moment sec

San Francisco generally fills up quickly in almost every price category, so don t waste a moment puerto morelos shopping securing a reservation. Telephone bookings are accepted with a valid credit card, although some may require a fax before confirming.

Sally Sanford puerto morelos shopping The Sausalito Chart House Restaurant puerto morelos shopping is the former purview of Sally Sanford (1903 82), the one-time bawdy house doyenne, and then Honorary Mayor of Sausalito. Since Gold Rush days, San Francisco puerto morelos shopping has loved and even honored those who stand for the city s sexual liberality. puerto morelos shopping