beijing ski resort You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently

You cannot beijing ski resort visit Alcatraz beijing ski resort independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, beijing ski resort Berkeley, beijing ski resort and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel 8 Broadway 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse beijing ski resort built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. @Cell Blocks Thecell house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military beijing ski resort prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged only about 260 at any one time. Exercise beijing ski resort Yard With a strict no talking rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior qualified them for a turn around the walled in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day. You cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourYou cannot visit Alcatraz independently booking a guided tourY t i it Al t i d d tl b ki id d t with the ferry company is required.y p y qwith the ferry company is requiredwith the ferry company is required beijing ski resort San Francisco s Top 10p Alcatraz To the inmates who were confined on this island beijing ski resort prison, in operation beijing ski resort from 1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America s busiest harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces- sion of automobiles crossing the bridges beijing ski resort and honking beijing ski resort their horns. They could certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far away ports all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far. 14 Top 10 Features 1 Lighthouse 2 Cell Block 3 Exercise Yard 4 Control Room 5 D Block 6 Dining Room 7 Chapel 8 Broadway 9 Visitor Center 0 Warden s House !Lighthouse Alcatraz Island was the site of the very first lighthouse built on the West Coast in 1854. The original lighthouse was replaced in 1909 with an automated one, to tower above the new cell block. @Cell Blocks Thecell house con- tains four free standing cell blocks (below). The complex was built by military prisoners in 1911 and was once the largest reinforced concrete building intheworld. In all, there were 390 cells, but the population averaged only about 260 at any one time. Exercise Yard With a strict no talking beijing ski resort rule and the monotonous gloom of being cut off from life, prisoners whose good behavior qualified them for a turn around the walled in Exercise Yard (above) must have felt very relieved. Here they could walk, rather than pace in theircells, where they spent 16 to 23 hours every day.

37 Blue Nile 125 Boarman, James 17 boating 73 Bogart, beijing ski resort Humphrey 53 Bolinas 124 5 Bolinas beijing ski resort Beach 76 Bond, James 9 Book Bay Bookstore 96 Boom-Boom, Sister 54 Borders 120 Botanica Yoruba 45, 110 Botta, Mario 26 Boudin Bakery 13 Boulder beijing ski resort Creek 78 Boulevard 63, 113 boutiques 140 Boxer, Barbara 37 Braille Institute of San

Mecca This dolled-up industrial space attracts some of the Castro s prettiest men, including the occasional drag queen, around the glowing circular bar, with red velvet and chiffon drapery. It s also a supper club featuring New American cuisine. d 2029 Market St Map F4 (415) 6217000 Dis. access

Talk about trendy in this town and all converr rr sations will lead to the W hotel. Minimalist with luxury touches throughout. Rooms have cordless phones and CD players. The clientele that come for drinks and general confabulation are modish trendsetters too.

monte montague San Francisco s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape fr

Golden Gate National Parkstore This shop is a buried monte montague treasure amid all the hoopla of the Wharf area. All the information you need for visiting the Bay Area s parks, plus great little souvenirs. d Pier 39 Map J4 (415) 433-7221

San Francisco monte montague s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone monte montague Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz %Alvin Creepy Karpis monte montague Karpis robbed his way Robert Birdman Stroud San Francisco s Top 10op 16 Stories from The Rock Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz %Alvin Creepy Karpis Karpis robbed monte montague his way Robert Birdman Stroud !

^Edinburgh Castle Pub A hugely happening place incorporating live indie music, a fish n chips delivery service, as well as darts, pool, and general carousing in the Scottish manner. d 950 Geary St Map P2 (415) 885-4074

dan montague Retreat Resort Located in the beautiful Russian River area, this peaceful setting in the Sonoma Coun

Retreat Resort Located in the beautiful Russian River area, this peaceful setting in the Sonoma County Redwoods offers a reinvigorating retreat from modern life. Body treatments include the Sonoma Salt Glow, Moor Mud Wrap, Desert Heat Body Wrap, Body Polish, Aromatherapy Cocoon, Retreat dan montague Wrap, and the Anti- Stress Back Treatment, each lasting approximately one hour. Included in your stay are exclusive use of the pool, Jacuzzi and private meadow, and evening wine-tastings on selected weekends. d 14711 Armstrong Woods Rd, Guerneville (707) 869-2706 www.retreatresort.biz

A short walk to Downtown, the furnished studios and executive apartments boast superb views and are available for a minimum of 30 days. All rooms include fully equipped kitchens, internet access and cable TV. d 1155 Jones St

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists dan montague of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private dan montague patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, and aromatherapy. dan montague The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

sea palace restaurant Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals 91 Pla

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals 91 Places to Eat Above Tablespoon !The Dining Room The setting, sea palace restaurant the service, and the food all live up to the Ritz name (see p62). d Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 600 Stockton Street Map P4 (415) 773-6198 Dis. access $$$$$ @Tommy Toy s Haute Cuisine sea palace restaurant Chinoise This elegant institution serves sea palace restaurant marvelous fare in a sumptuous setting. The cuisine is a melding of Chinese and French. d 655 Montgomery St Map N5 (415) 397- 4888 Dis. access $$$$ Rubicon A chic environment in which to enjoy some of the city s best cuisine and wines. California- French sea palace restaurant in inspiration (see p62). d 558 Sacramento St Map N5 (415) 434- 4100 Closed Sun Dis. Access $$$$ $One Market The views of the Bay s lights are spectacular at night, and the food memorable. d 1 Market St at Steuart Map N6 (415) 777-5577 Closed Sun Dis. access $$$$ %Tablespoon This intimate, urbane restaurant offers seasonal, contemporary American cooking. d 2209 Polk St Q1 (415) 268-0140 Dis. access $$ ^US Restaurant Everything served here is simple and authentically Italian. d 515 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 397-5200 $$ &Capp s Corner Serves one of the most authentic minestrones outside of Italy. d 1600 Powell sea palace restaurant St Map L4 (415) 989-2589 Dis. access $$ *Sears Fine Food This 1950s retro coffee shop is always good for a quick fill-up (see p65). d 439 Powell St Map P4 (415) 986-0700/1160 Closed Tue Wed Dis. access $ (Clown Alley Solid American diner food burgers, hot dogs, French fries, shakes, and wine and beer, too. d 42 Columbus Ave Map M5 (415) 421-2540 No credit cards Dis. access $ )Ponzu This Asian-style tapas restaurant, with bar, has an eclectic choice of pan-Asian cuisine served on small plates perfect for sharing. d 401 Taylor Street Map P3 (415) 775-7979 Closed L $$$ Around Town Downtown

In the US sales tax is added to your total bill, rather than included in the listed price, apart from groceries. In San Francisco, the sales tax is currently 8.5 percent, and hotel tax is 14 percent. However, tax varies from state to state.

eugene montague This virus is still very much a public health problem. Throughout the Bay Area there are ample free

A member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World and definitely one of San Francisco s finest, this place aims to provide personal attention to every guest. Expect to find the best of everything. Its restaurant also has national ranking.

Baker Beach This one-mile (1.5-km) stretch of sandy beach, with its perfect views of the Golden Gate Bridge, is the most popular in the city. It s great for sunbathing, dog-walking, picnicking or jog ging, but signs warn off swim mers because of riptides. Sunsets here are unforgettable. d Map C2

This virus is still very much a public health problem. Throughout the Bay Area there are ample free public health responses with a range of services, including free check-ups. Your part is not to take risks use a condom. d AIDS-HIV Nightline: (415) 434-2437 (English only) California AIDS Foundation Hotline: 1800- 367-2437 or (415) 8632437 (multilingual)

moon valley chile San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lec

Note: Unless moon valley chile otherwise stated, all restaurants moon valley chile accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals Around Town Southern Neighborhoods 113 Places to Eat Above Pancho Villa Taqueria !Boulevard The cuisine is mouthwatering Americana, but in very creative ways. The decor is belle poque; the service superior. d 1 Mission St at Steuart Map H2 (415) 543-6084 Dis. access $$$$ @Luna A pleasant patio, and great food try the grilled salmon salad with black-eyed peas. d 558 Castro St Map E5 (415) 621-2566 $$ Bagdad Caf This diner is all-American buffalo moon valley chile wings, herb-roasted chicken, moon valley chile and pastries displayed in a revolving carousel. d 2295 Market St Map F4 (415) 621-4434 Dis. access $ $Sparky s Diner Open 24 hours, this caf is great for clubbers wanting to grab a late night breakfast. During the day it attracts families. moon valley chile d 242 Church St at Market Map F4 (415) 626-8666 $ %Chow Just off Market Street, Chow offers affordable pizzas, pastas, grilled and roasted meats, and a selection of beer and wine. Friendly service. d 215 Church St Map F4 (415) 552-2469 Dis. access $ ^Pancho Villa Taqueria Traditional Mexican fare here is prepared by jolly muchachos and chiquitas. d 3071 16th St Map F4 (415) 864-8840 Dis. access $ &La Rondalla Kitsch and fun, this lively place serves Tex-Mex food until 3am. Wash it down with their potent margaritas. d 901 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 647-7474 Closed Mon No credit cards Dis. access $ *Caff Centro A brisk business in drinks, pastries, soups, and salads. Always crowded (see p64). d 102 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-1500 Closed Sun Dis. access $ (Tita Hale Aina This Hawaiian restaurant is complete with traditional music and tropical decor. Specialties include kahlua pig and aku tuna. d 3870 17th St at Market Map F5 (415) 626-2477 Closed Mon Dis. access $ )Higher Ground Coffee House A variety of sandwiches, omelets, and fresh salads, served with amazing homemade fries. d 691 Chenery St, Glen Park (415) 587-2933 No credit cards Dis. access $

San Francisco moon valley chile s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesTh Chi C lt C t li l i f l t and seminars, as well as walking moon valley chile tours of Chinatown., gand seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown and seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown Gold Rush Cantonese Chinese immigrants began to arrive with the Gold Rush, to get rich quick and return home heroes. As it happened, things turned politically sour in China at the time, and many Chinese moon valley chile stayed in the new land. Unfortunately, there was a racist backlash against them, resulting in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, and China town became a kind of ghetto, full of opium dens and vice. The Act was repealed in 1943, and things have steadily improved ever since. $Old Chinese Telephone Exchange This three-tiered pagoda is now the Bank of Canton, and is the most distinctive work of architectural chinoiserie in China- town. It served as the telephone exchange until the 1950s. %Temples There are a number of temples that incorpo rate Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist elements. The Tin How Temple (below) was founded in 1852 and dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. ^Stockton Street Chinese Markets At these authentic moon valley chile pro duce markets moon valley chile the real smells, sights, and sounds of Chinatown come into sharp focus (above). &Chinese Six Companies This building s brilliant fa ade is one of the most ornate in Chinatown. The Six Companies was formed in 1882 to pro mote Chinese interests within the community. (Chinese Culture Center The Chinese Culture Center comprises an art gallery and a small crafts shop, featuring the work of Chinese and Chinese- American artists. *Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center This is the new home for the Chinese Historical Society s 15,000-piece collection of artifacts, documents, photographs, and replicas that illustrate and explain the Chinese- American moon valley chile experience. )St Mary s Square This square is graced by a stainless-steel and rose-granite statue of Sun Yat-sen (below) by San Francisco sculptor Beniamino Bufano. Map of Chinatown San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 19The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesThe Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lecturesTh Chi C lt C t li l i f l t and seminars, as well as walking tours of Chinatown., gand seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown and seminars as well as walking tours of Chinatown Gold Rush Cantonese Chinese immigrants began to arrive with the Gold Rush, to get rich quick and return home heroes. As it happened, things turned politically sour in China at the time, and many Chinese stayed in the new land. Unfortunately, there was a racist backlash against them, resulting in the Chinese moon valley chile Exclusion Act of 1882, and China town became a kind of ghetto, full of opium dens and vice. The Act was repealed in 1943, and things have steadily improved ever since. $Old Chinese Telephone Exchange This three-tiered pagoda is now the Bank of Canton, and is the most distinctive work of architectural chinoiserie in China- town. It served as the telephone exchange until the 1950s. %Temples There are a number of temples that incorpo rate Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist elements. The Tin How Temple (below) was founded in 1852 and dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. ^Stockton Street Chinese Markets At these authentic pro duce markets the real smells, sights, and sounds of Chinatown come into sharp focus (above). &Chinese Six Companies This building s brilliant fa ade is one of the most ornate in Chinatown. The Six Companies was formed in 1882 to pro mote Chinese interests within moon valley chile the community. (Chinese Culture Center The Chinese Culture Center comprises an art gallery and a small crafts shop, featuring the work of Chinese and Chinese- American artists. *Chinese Historical Society moon valley chile of America Museum and Learning Center This is the new home for the Chinese Historical Society s 15,000-piece collection of artifacts, documents, photographs, and replicas that illustrate and explain the Chinese- American experience. moon valley chile )St Mary s Square This square is graced by a stainless-steel and rose-granite statue of Sun Yat-sen (below) by San Francisco sculptor Beniamino Bufano. Map of Chinatown

adriatic baseball team, the San Francisco Giants, and developers have already put forth ideas of how the zone

baseball team, the San Francisco Giants, and developers have already put forth ideas of how the zone can be put to use. A number of restaurants, bars, and clubs, many with port views, have opened up here lately or have been refurbished and gentrified. d Map H4

If you re hankering after a fancy meal in one of the more famous restaurants, you d do best to call in advance, sometimes up to two months ahead in the case of one or two of the top Bay Area draws. For the middling places, making a reservation a day or two before should adriatic suffice, unless you choose a weekend night.

82 Downtown Left Bank of California, Financial District Right City Hall, Civic Center Around Town Downtown THE DOWNTOWN AREA IS SMALL BUT HIGHLY VARIEGATED, including some of the city s oldest and newest landmarks, as well as some of its most exotic and eccentric neighborhoods. Colorful Chinatown, exuberant North Beach, adriatic posh Nob and Russian Hills, run-down Polk Street, the bustling Financial District, the graceful Ferry Building, and the noble architecture adriatic and cultural venues of the Civic Center all these and more are packed into San Francisco s heart. This is where you can ride the legendary cable cars on their most scenic routes (see pp10 11), and don t forget to climb up Telegraph Hill, where Coit Tower stands as one of the city s most loved landmarks, competing successfully with the Transamerica Pyramid not far away. Chinatown Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings adriatic in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity adriatic despite every threat and cajolery. To walk along its cluttered, clattering adriatic streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent adriatic and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports adriatic today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry adriatic bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate adriatic mansions of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center of the summit. Today, instead of private manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. adriatic d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity despite every threat and cajolery. adriatic To walk along its cluttered, clattering streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities adriatic have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple adriatic pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate mansions of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center of the summit. Today, instead of private manses, adriatic Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, adriatic which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach