Tuesday, July 31, 2012

vile vanzare This restored 1903 Edwardian house is conveniently located close to public transport in Castro s gay





This restored 1903 Edwardian house is conveniently located close to public transport in Castro s gay community. The interior is a blend of handcrafted willow furni shings, antique dressers, armoires, and cozy comforters. d 710 14th St

If you re hankering vile vanzare after a fancy meal in one of the more famous restaurants, you d do best to call in advance, sometimes up to two months ahead in the case of one or two of the top Bay Area draws. For the middling places, making a reservation a day or two before should suffice, unless you choose a weekend night.

casa batraneasca de vanzare Located close to Union Square and public transport, this modern apartment block includes amenities s





Located close to Union Square and public transport, this modern apartment block includes amenities such as a swimming pool, sauna, concierge, dry cleaning service, fitness center, and business center. The furnished casa batraneasca de vanzare and serviced apartments can be rented casa batraneasca de vanzare for a minimum of 30 days. d 639 Geary St

Unless you are very unusual, you will fall in love with this city and want to stay as long as possible. A week should allow you to take in all the major sights; two weeks will leave enough time to explore the coast and the Wine Country.

casa afumati Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall With performances from September to May, under the directorship of Mi





San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple casa afumati Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing casa afumati through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places casa afumati of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple casa afumati Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western casa afumati US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. casa afumati Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed in 1872, this Gothic Revival cathedral has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 Services: casa afumati 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall With performances from September to May, under the directorship of Michael Tilson Thomas, the San Francisco Symphony casa afumati Orchestra performs in this modern structure with carefully modulated acoustics. Built in 1980, this curving, glass- fronted concert casa afumati hall is loved and loathed in equal measure by San Franciscans. Its corner place ment is set off by a Henry Moore bronze, which also has its share of detractors. casa afumati d 201 Van Ness Ave Map R1 (415) 864-6000

Angel, Treasure, and Yerba Buena Islands A trip out to Angel Island, now a state park, can make for a very pleasant day of picnicking, biking, hiking, kayaking, and swimming. But in the early 1900s it was the

teren in rate STREETSMARTSSSSTTTTRRRREEEEEEETTTTSSSMMMMMMAAAAARRRRTTTPlanning Your TripPPlaannnnninnngg YYY oouu r





Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept creditU teren in rate l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals 97 Places to Eat Above McCormick & Kuleto s !Gary Danko The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix n match fixed-price selec tion. If you don t have a reserva tion, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu. d 800 North Point St at Hyde Map K2 (415) 749-2060 Dis. access $$$$$ @Alioto s This first-rate restaurant serves Sicilian and seafood dishes in an old-style interior. There are great views over the Golden Gate Bridge. d 8 Fisherman s Wharf Map J4 (415) 673-0183 Dis. access $$$$ Ana Mandara An exotic eatery with a touch of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Indo-Chinese and deli cious. d 891 Beach St at Polk Map K1 (415) 771-6800 Dis. access $$$ $Isa The tiny dining room of this Marina discovery is also the kitchen. The concept is nouvelle French tapas, so portions are petite but exquisite. d 3324 Steiner St between Chestnut and Lombard Map E2 (415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$$ %McCormick & Kuleto s Come for the view; stay for the chilled seafood sampler. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 929-1730 Dis. access $$ ^Greens Two decades of inventive vegetarian teren in rate dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort Mason Center, Buchanan St, Building A Map F1 (415) 771-6222 Dis. access $$$ &The Mandarin Opened in 1968, Northern Chinese cuisine is served in this popular teren in rate restaurant with fine Bay Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 673-8812 $$ *Scoma teren in rate s A Fisherman s Wharf seafood tradition since 1965 (see p12). Enjoy the cracked crab roasted in garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1 Scoma Way Map J2 (415) 771-4383 Dis. access $$ (Grandeho s Kamekyo teren in rate Japanese food at its best. Sushi of all sorts. d 2721 Hyde St between Beach and North Point Map K2 (415) 673-6828 Dis. access $$$ )The Buena Vista Caf This caf claims to have invented Irish coffee. The menu features American standards. d 2 765 Hyde St Map K2 (415) 474- 5044 Dis. access $$ Around Town The North Shoreline teren in rate Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless teren in rate otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept creditU l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals 97 Places to Eat Above McCormick & Kuleto s !Gary Danko The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix n match fixed-price selec tion. If you don t have a reserva tion, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu. d 800 North Point St at Hyde Map K2 (415) 749-2060 Dis. access $$$$$ @Alioto s This first-rate restaurant serves Sicilian and seafood dishes in an old-style interior. There are great views over the Golden Gate Bridge. d 8 Fisherman s Wharf Map J4 (415) 673-0183 Dis. access $$$$ Ana Mandara An exotic eatery with a touch of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Indo-Chinese and deli cious. d 891 Beach St at Polk Map K1 (415) 771-6800 Dis. access $$$ $Isa The tiny dining room of this Marina discovery is also the kitchen. The concept is nouvelle French tapas, so portions are petite but exquisite. d 3324 Steiner St between Chestnut and Lombard Map E2 (415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$$ %McCormick & Kuleto s Come for the view; stay for the chilled seafood sampler. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 929-1730 Dis. access $$ ^Greens Two decades of inventive vegetarian dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort Mason Center, Buchanan St, Building A Map F1 (415) 771-6222 Dis. access $$$ &The Mandarin Opened in 1968, Northern Chinese cuisine is served teren in rate in this popular restaurant with fine Bay Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 673-8812 $$ *Scoma s A Fisherman s Wharf seafood tradition since 1965 (see p12). Enjoy the cracked crab roasted in garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1 Scoma Way Map J2 (415) 771-4383 Dis. access $$ (Grandeho s Kamekyo Japanese food at its best. Sushi of all sorts. d 2721 Hyde St between Beach and North Point Map K2 (415) 673-6828 Dis. access $$$ )The Buena Vista Caf This caf claims to have invented Irish coffee. teren in rate The menu features American standards. d 2 765 Hyde St Map K2 (415) 474- 5044 Dis. access $$ Around Town The North Shoreline teren in rate

STREETSMARTSSSSTTTTRRRREEEEEEETTTTSSSMMMMMMAAAAARRRRTTTPlanning Your TripPPlaannnnninnngg YYY oouu r TTTrripp 13211 33322 Getting to SanGGGeeetttinnngg tt oo SSSaann SSSSTTTTRRRREEEEEEETTTTSSSMMMMMMAAAAARRRRTTTPlanning Your TripPPlaannnnninnngg YYY oouu r TTTrripp 13211 33322 Getting to SanGGGeeetttinnngg tt oo SSSaann FranciscoFFrraaa nnccissccoo 13311 33333 Getting teren in rate Around SanGGGeeettti nnngg AAArrooouunnn dd SSSaann teren in rate FranciscoFFrraaa nnccissccoo 13411 33344 Things to AvoidTTThhhinngggss tooo AAAvvvoooidd 13511 33355 Budget TipsBBBuuddd teren in rate ggeett TTipppss 13611 33366 Special Needs TipsSSpppeecciaal NNN eeeeddd ss TTipppss 13711 33377 Banking andBB aaa nnkkinnngg aa nndd CommunicationsCCooo mmm mmmmuu nniccaatt i oonn ss 13811 33388 Security and HealthSSSeeccuu rrityy aannddd HHHeeaa ltthh 13911 33399 Shopping TipsSShh ooopppppinnggg TTipppss 14011 44400 Eating andEEE aatinnngg aa nndd Accommodation TipsAAAccccooo mmm mmmmooodddaatt i oonn TTipppss 14111 4441 1

A short walk to Downtown, the furnished studios and executive apartments boast superb views and are available for a minimum of 30 days. All rooms include fully equipped kitchens, internet access and cable TV. d 1155 Jones St

Castro District This hilly neighborhood around Castro Street is the center of San Francisco s high- profile gay community. The intersection of Castro and 18th streets is the self-proclaimed Gayest Four Corners of the World, and this openly homo sexual nexus emerged in the 1970s as the place of pilgrimage for gays and lesbians from all over the country and the world. Unlike other cities, where homo sexuals once hid themselves

sticky wisdom San Francisco Zoo Direct encounters with farm animals at Family Farm, and visits with zoo babies, wh





This beautiful Art Deco hotel dates from 1908 and has a hand some style, accented by Edward Hopper prints. Parking is offered a great rarity. d 386 Geary St Map P3 (415) 9862000 www.maxwellhotel. com Dis. access $$

San Francisco sticky wisdom Zoo Direct encounters with farm animals sticky wisdom at Family Farm, and visits with zoo babies, which may include gorillas, sticky wisdom snow leopards, rhinos, or alpacas, make this a must-do for the youngsters. Although sticky wisdom perhaps not the biggest or best zoo in the world, its attention to top-

de vinzare Calistoga Spa Hot Springs The motel-like Hot Springs provides a setting in which you can make your v





San Francisco s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero Serra This 18th-century Spanish cleric traveled up and down California establishing missions, including Mission Dolores (see p31). @John C. Fremont Instrumental in the US annexation of California in the mid-1800s, it was Fremont who dubbed the Bay straits the Golden Gate. John Muir Muir was a keen promoter of the National Parks move ment. The Muir Woods are named in his honor (see p78). $Leland Stanford One of the Big Four who masterminded the Transcon tinental railroad also founded Stanford University (see p125). %Mark Hopkins Another of the Big Four who struck de vinzare it super-rich and lived on Nob Hill. ^Charles Crocker Another Big Four accom plice. The Crocker Galleria recalls his legacy (see p50 51). &A.P. Giannini Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini financed de vinzare the Golden Gate Bridge. *Harvey Milk The first openly gay poli tician to become a member of the Board of Supervisors was assassinated in 1978. (Dianne Feinstein One of the movers and shakers of San Francisco poli tics in recent decades, she became a US Senator in 1992. )Jerry Brown Buddhist monk and mayor of Oakland, this intellectual free spirit ran for president. San Francisco s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero de vinzare Serra This 18th-century de vinzare Spanish cleric traveled up and down California establishing missions, including Mission Dolores (see p31). @John C. Fremont Instrumental in the US annexation of California in the mid-1800s, it was Fremont who dubbed the Bay straits the Golden Gate. John Muir Muir was a keen promoter of the National Parks move ment. The Muir Woods are named in his honor (see p78). $Leland Stanford One of the Big Four who masterminded the Transcon tinental railroad also founded Stanford University (see p125). de vinzare %Mark Hopkins Another of the Big Four who struck it super-rich and lived on Nob Hill. ^Charles Crocker Another Big Four accom plice. de vinzare The Crocker de vinzare Galleria recalls his legacy (see p50 51). &A.P. Giannini Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini de vinzare financed the Golden de vinzare Gate Bridge. *Harvey Milk The first openly gay poli tician to become a member of the Board of Supervisors was assassinated in 1978. (Dianne Feinstein One of the movers and shakers of San Francisco poli tics in recent decades, she became a US Senator in 1992. )Jerry Brown Buddhist monk and mayor of Oakland, this intellectual free spirit ran for president. Caf sign, Haight-Ashbury

Calistoga Spa Hot Springs The motel-like Hot Springs provides a setting in which you can make your visit as restful or as active as you like. Facilities include four outdoor mineral water pools, and exercise and aerobics rooms. d 1006 Washington St, Calistoga (707) 942-6269 www. calistogaspa.com

op 41 displayed according to their country of origin. But the layout also demonstrates de vinzare the flow and transformation of Buddhist art from India and outward de vinzare into the entire Far East. Included is the fabulous Avery Brundage collec- de vinzare tion of Oriental de vinzare jade. d 200 Larkin St Map R2 (415) 581-3500 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun, 10am 9pm Thur) Adm www.asianart.org ^San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design Established in 2004, this one of a kind museum, housed de vinzare in an elegant de vinzare building fronted by a charming courtyard, celebrates and promotes contemporary craft and design through innovative exhibitions and educational programs. They organize lots of lectures, special events, and programs de vinzare for children. There is also a great museum store with many original pieces for sale. d 550 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 773- 0303 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sat, noon 5pm Sun Dis. access Adm www.sfmcd.com &Cable Car Museum This brick, warehouse like structure houses the nuts and bolts machinery that keeps the entire cable car system de vinzare opera- ting. Don t miss a look down- stairs de vinzare at the giant, spool like sheaves winding the fat cables round and round (see p11). *Mus e Mechanique and Holographic Museum A quaint, time warp experience awaits you here. As you approach the lower level, you ll be greeted by the loud guffaws of Laughing Sal, the enormous, buxom figure that is a relic of the old Playland at the Beach. There are also many other often op 41 displayed according to their country of origin. But the layout also demonstrates the flow and transformation of Buddhist art from India and outward de vinzare into the entire Far East. Included de vinzare is the fabulous Avery Brundage de vinzare collec- tion of Oriental jade. d 200 Larkin St Map R2 (415) 581-3500 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun, 10am 9pm Thur) Adm www.asianart.org ^San Francisco de vinzare Museum of Craft and Design de vinzare Established in 2004, this one of a kind museum, housed in an elegant building fronted by a charming courtyard, celebrates and promotes contemporary craft and design through innovative exhibitions and educational programs. They organize lots of lectures, special events, and programs for children. There is also a great museum store with many original pieces for sale. d 550 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 773- 0303 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sat, noon 5pm Sun Dis. access Adm www.sfmcd.com &Cable Car Museum This brick, de vinzare warehouse like structure houses the nuts and bolts machinery that keeps the entire cable car system opera- ting. Don t miss a look down- stairs at the giant, spool like sheaves winding the fat cables round and round (see p11). *Mus e Mechanique and Holographic Museum A quaint, time warp experience awaits de vinzare you here. As you approach the lower level, you ll be greeted by the loud guffaws of Laughing Sal, the enormous, buxom figure that is a relic of the old Playland de vinzare at the Beach. There are also many other often ingenious mechanical devices that once crowded the arcade. Don t miss the re creation in miniature of a Chinese opium den. In addition, there is a small collection devoted to the art of holography. d Pier 45, Fisherman s Wharf Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat Sun (415) 346-2000

adriatic pearl Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht h





Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht harbor. Many of the suites adriatic pearl feature whirlpool baths, kitchens, and wet bars, and all have period furnishings. d 3155 Scott St at Lombard Map E2

A member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World and definitely one of San Francisco s finest, this place aims to provide personal attention to every guest. Expect to find the best of everything. Its restaurant also has national ranking.

15 montague street San Francisco s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero Serra This 18th-century Spanish cleric





^Armistead Maupin Maupin s Tales of the City were serialized in the San Francisco Chronicle before being published in book form. They are lighthearted paeans to the idio syncrasies of gay San Francisco in the 1970s, before the specter of AIDS changed everything.

San Francisco 15 montague street s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero Serra This 18th-century 15 montague street Spanish cleric traveled up and down California establishing missions, including Mission Dolores (see p31). @John C. Fremont Instrumental in the US annexation of California in the mid-1800s, it was Fremont who dubbed the Bay straits the Golden Gate. John Muir Muir was a keen promoter of the National Parks move ment. The Muir Woods are named in his honor (see p78). $Leland Stanford One of the Big Four who masterminded the Transcon tinental railroad also founded Stanford University (see p125). %Mark Hopkins 15 montague street Another of the Big Four who struck it super-rich and lived on Nob Hill. ^Charles Crocker 15 montague street Another Big Four accom plice. The Crocker Galleria recalls his legacy (see p50 51). &A.P. Giannini Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini financed the Golden Gate Bridge. 15 montague street *Harvey Milk The first openly gay poli tician to become a member of the Board of Supervisors was assassinated in 1978. (Dianne Feinstein One of the movers and shakers of San Francisco poli tics in recent decades, she became a US Senator in 1992. )Jerry Brown Buddhist monk and mayor of Oakland, this intellectual free spirit ran for president. San Francisco s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero Serra This 18th-century Spanish cleric traveled up and down California establishing missions, including Mission Dolores (see p31). @John C. Fremont Instrumental in the US annexation of California in the mid-1800s, it was Fremont who dubbed the Bay straits the Golden Gate. John Muir Muir was a keen promoter of the National Parks move ment. The Muir Woods are named in his honor (see p78). $Leland Stanford One of the Big Four who masterminded the Transcon tinental railroad also founded Stanford University (see p125). %Mark Hopkins Another of the Big Four who struck it super-rich and lived on Nob Hill. ^Charles Crocker Another Big Four accom plice. The Crocker 15 montague street Galleria recalls his legacy (see p50 51). &A.P. Giannini Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini financed the Golden Gate Bridge. *Harvey Milk The first openly gay poli tician to become a member of the Board of Supervisors was assassinated 15 montague street in 1978. (Dianne Feinstein One of the movers and shakers of San Francisco poli tics in recent decades, she became a US Senator in 1992. )Jerry Brown Buddhist monk and mayor of Oakland, this intellectual free spirit ran for president. Caf sign, Haight-Ashbury

In addition to free parking for the disabled, all Bay Area transit 15 montague street com panies offer discounted fares for disabled passengers, including BART, Muni, AC Transit, and Golden Gate Transit. National parks issue special passes for the disabled that entitle them and passengers in the same vehicle to enter free. In addition, many attractions offer reduced entrance fees to the disabled. d BART Passes 15 montague street Office (510) 464-7133

sleepy inn beijing San Francisco s Top 10op 23Kids love theKids love theKids love theKid l th NaturalistNaturalistNatur





San Francisco s Top 10op 23Kids love theKids love theKids love theKid l th NaturalistNaturalistNaturalistNt li t Center, on the second floor, sleepy inn beijing where thereCenter, on the second floor, where thereCenter on the second floor where there C t th d fl h th are multimedia displays and art activities.pyare multimedia displays and art activitiesare multimedia displays and art activities San Francisco s Top 10op 23Kids love theKids love theKids love theKid l th NaturalistNaturalistNaturalistNt li t Center, on the second floor, where thereCenter, sleepy inn beijing on the second floor, where thereCenter on the second floor where there C t th d fl h th are multimedia displays and art activities.pyare multimedia displays and art activitiesare multimedia displays and art activities &

San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple sleepy inn beijing The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish sleepy inn beijing pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple sleepy inn beijing (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. sleepy inn beijing Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through sleepy inn beijing crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored here. d 2335 Market St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 San Francisco s Top 10op 45 Top 10 Other Places of Worship !Kong Chow Temple The oldest of Chinatown s temples is dedicated to Kuan Di, a male deity (see pp18 19). @Tin How Temple The Queen of Heaven rules this sanctuary and makes sure devotees travel safely by water, among other things (see pp18 19). #Temple Sherith Israel Founded in 1849 by Jewish pioneers, the present domed synagogue dates from 1904. d 2266 California St Map F3 Services: 6pm Fri, 10:30am Sat Free $Vedanta Temple This was the first Hindu Temple (1905) in the western US. d 2963 Webster St Map E2 Free %Zen Center Home to the city s Zen practitioners. Beginners are welcome. d 300 Page St Map F4 ^Crystal Way Healing through crystals, light, sound, and positive thinking are explored sleepy inn beijing here. d 2335 Market sleepy inn beijing St Map F5 &Botanica Yoruba All the Santeria parapher- nalia you ll need (see p110). *Psychic Eye Book Shop A panoply of exotic gods and goddesses. sleepy inn beijing d 301 Fell St Map F4 (The Love of Ganesha Hindu clothing, arts, and crafts. d 1601A Page St Map E4 )Open Secret The backroom of this New Age venue is like a temple to all the world s deities. d 923 C St, San Rafael Hwy 1 *St. Patrick s Cathedral Constructed in 1872, this Gothic Revival cathedral has an impressive marble and stained glass interior. d 756 Mission St Map Q4 (415) 421-3730 Services: 7am, 8am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm Sun Free www.st-patrick.org

crococun zoo puerto morelos Botanica Yoruba The Santeria religion is the faith of many Latinos, and this shop caters to their ri





Running Now that Crissy Field s restoration is complete, the Golden Gate Promenade (see p97) is an inspiring run. And, of course, Golden Gate Park offers endless opportunities for jogging. If organized running is your thing, try the Bay to Breakers or the San Francisco Marathon. d Bay to Breakers: 3rd Sun in May; (415) 359-2800; www.baytobreakers.com San Francisco crococun zoo puerto morelos Marathon: Jul; (415) 284-9653 www.runsfm.com

Botanica Yoruba The Santeria religion is the faith of many Latinos, and this shop caters to their ritualistic and spiritual needs. An array of potions and powders, candles and icons (see p45). d 998 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 826-4967

Vaguely English Tudor in style, with a slate roof, the rooms are comfortable and fairly large, and a few have bay windows. The location is convenient to the Marina and Pacific Heights. Free parking, cable TV, and in room coffee crococun zoo puerto morelos maker. All no smoking. d 2095 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 5635600 www.chelseamotor inn.com Dis. access $

Located on the top 11 floors of Downtown s third-tallest building, this is one of the classiest hotels in the city. Its East-meets-West decor is magnificent, its restaurant one of the finest, and the rooms, amenities, and service superb. d 222 Sansome St

terri montague In established outlets bargaining is out of the question. However, in flea markets, garage sales, an





In established outlets bargaining is out of the question. However, in flea markets, garage sales, and some of the funkier terri montague ethnic terri montague stores, it is is acceptable. Make a counter offer and haggle it down to a mutually satisfactory sum.

Big Basin State Park, Boulder Creek Highway 9 is one of the most picturesque drives in the Bay Area, winding its way among the green Santa Cruz Mountains and through little towns where nothing much changes. Although it s minutes from Silicon Valley, life has a backwoods feel here.

moon valley plant Tiburon Possibly Marin County s smartest community, it stands as a less hectic alternative to Sausal





78 San Francisco s Top 10op The Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayTh O i S i t d t diti t th l whale migration. Contact (415) 474-3385 for details.g ( )whale migration Contact (415) 474-3385 for details whale migration Contact (415) 474 3385 for details Day Trips from the City Left Coastal beach Right Monterey harbor Monterey This town is renowned for its world-class aquarium, the Monterey Jazz and Blues Festivals, and Cannery Row, made famous by author John Steinbeck, who described it as a collection of sardine canneries and whorehouses. Established by the Spanish inCalifornia 78 San Francisco s Top 10op The Oceanic Society conducts moon valley plant expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society moon valley plant conducts expeditions to the annual grayTh O i S i t d t diti t th l whale migration. Contact moon valley plant (415) 474-3385 for details.g ( )whale migration Contact (415) 474-3385 for details whale migration Contact (415) 474 3385 for details Day Trips from the City Left Coastal beach Right Monterey harbor Monterey This town is renowned for its world-class aquarium, the Monterey Jazz and Blues Festivals, and Cannery Row, made famous by author John Steinbeck, who described it as a collection of sardine moon valley plant canneries and whorehouses. Established by the Spanish inCalifornia !

Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Market 91 Ono, Yoko 27 Open Secret 45 Operetta 96 O Reilly s 90 Orpheum 57 Otsu 110 outdoor activities 72 3

Tiburon Possibly Marin County s smartest community, it stands as a less hectic alternative to Sausalito for its views and restaurants. moon valley plant Here, 100-year-old houseboats ( arks ) have been pulled ashore, lined up, and refurbished, forming what is called Ark Row, where you ll find shops and restaurants that enhance the charm of this waterfront village. Tiburon also offers scenic parks along the shore, facing Angel Island and the city. d Hwy 131

moon valley phoenix have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. I





have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. If you choose your own wine, remember moon valley phoenix that California wines are identified by grape rather than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters (see p67).

San Francisco s area code is 415, but neighboring localities have other codes. moon valley phoenix If you are calling from within the same area, you do not dial the area code; conversely, if you are calling from outside the area, you must dial the area code and precede it with a 1. From pay phones, calls cost 50 cents and up. Toll-free numbers start with 800, 877, 888, or several new similar prefixes. For directory information, dial 411. International calls should be preceded by 011.

christine montague This sort of offer is somewhat superfluous if your main purpose is to get to know the city and littl





This sort of offer is somewhat superfluous if your main purpose is to get to know the city and little else outside it. However, if you want to dive into the fruit of the vine in the Wine Country (see pp32 5) or into the waves of the blue Pacific Ocean in Santa Cruz, Monterey, and Carmel (see pp78 9), a car is a necessity. You may be able to negotiate a lower rate if you rent the car for only part of your stay.

The Presidio This beautiful wooded corner of the city has stunning views over the Golden Gate, but from 1776 until 1994 it was owned and occupied christine montague by first the Spanish, then the Mexican, and finally, the US armies, and almost entirely off limits to anyone else. It has now been dubbed a major part of the Golden Gate National christine montague Recreational Area, and plans are still coalescing as to its ultimate future. At the very least, it is a spectacular park, full of nature trails, streams, forests, drives, and historic structures. Some of the buildings are being turned into cultural christine montague centers, but many of them are still residences. Parts of it may eventually be developed for commercial use (see p48). d Map D2

dr samuel weiner ^Tennis Free public tennis courts abound in the city. Contact the Recreation and Park Department for





! Gumps Founded in 1861 by German immigrants, this homegrown department store is an institution. It has the largest collection in the US of fine china and crystal, selling famous names such as Baccarat and Lalique. The store is also celebrated for its Oriental treasures, rare works of art, and its window displays. d 135 Post St Map P4 (800) 766-7628

^Tennis Free public tennis courts abound in the city. Contact the Recreation and Park Department dr samuel weiner for the one nearest you. Golden Gate Park has 21 courts, for which a small fee is charged, but you can book in advance. Most public outdoor courts are open from sunrise to sunset. Indoor courts are the purview of private tennis clubs, with membership required. d San Francisco Recreation and Park Department: (415) 831-2700 Golden Gate Park: (415) 753-7001 dr samuel weiner

Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBf dr samuel weiner l h k d t d h t and/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled.yand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handledand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car Security and Health Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore dr samuel weiner you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBf l h k d t d h t and/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled.yand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handledand/or reimbursements on your health dr samuel weiner insurance are handled Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car Security and Health dr samuel weiner !Earthquake Procedures

For virtually all travel purposes, this is by far the best way to get cash, either through your home checking dr samuel weiner account or by securing a PIN number to use with your credit card. The rate of exchange is generally the best for that day, and the small fees charged by the banks are less than those charged by exchange offices. Best of all, you don t have to wait in long lines or carry ID.

weather in adriatic International Airport Fifteen miles (24 km) south of the city and linked by two freeways and a host





For bike rentalsFor bike rentalsFor bike rentalsF bik t l See p134.See p134.See p134S 134 The Presidio visitor center is nowThe weather in adriatic Presidio visitor center is nowThe Presidio visitor center is nowTh P idi i it t i temporarily located in the Presidio Officers Club until 2005.p ytemporarily located weather in adriatic in the Presidio Officers Club until 2005 temporarily located in the Presidio Officers Club until 2005 Around Town The North Shoreline 95 For bike rentalsFor bike rentalsFor bike rentalsF bik t l See p134.See p134.See p134S 134 The Presidio visitor center is nowThe Presidio visitor center is nowThe Presidio visitor center is nowTh P idi i it t i temporarily located weather in adriatic in the Presidio Officers Club until 2005.p ytemporarily located in the Presidio Officers Club until 2005 temporarily located in the Presidio Officers Club until 2005 Around Town The North Shoreline 95 of the Presidio as a national park under the supervision of the city, a massive restoration project has now returned part of Crissy Field to wetlands and the rest to lawns, pathways, and picnic areas. The city s 100 acre Front Yard is one of the prime viewing sites for the July 4 fireworks weather in adriatic displays, while the Golden Gate Promenade is a 3 mile (5 km) paved pathway that runs through this district from Aquatic weather in adriatic Park to Fort Point. d Map D1

International Airport Fifteen weather in adriatic miles (24 km) south of the city and linked by two freeways and a host of inexpensive public transport weather in adriatic options and private shuttles, as well as taxis and limos, SFO is very conveniently located and efficiently run. The airport has three terminals, weather in adriatic and the largest international terminal in the US. Information booths are located weather in adriatic downstairs and are open from 8am to 1:30am. d SFO: (650) 876-7809

casa la munte 38, 44, 107 Miyako 105 Moby Dick 68 Monaco 144 Mondavi, Robert 33 Mondrian, Piet 27 Monet, Claude 40





Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere Island 127 Beringer Vineyards 33 Berkeley 123 Berkeley Hills 60 Betelnut 105 Biafra, Jello 54 Bia s Restaurant and

38, 44, 107 Miyako 105 Moby Dick 68 Monaco 144 Mondavi, Robert 33 Mondrian, Piet 27 Monet, Claude 40 money 138 Monroe, Marilyn 85 The Monroe Hotel 149 Monterey 78 Moore, Henry 56 Morris, Frank 17 Morrison Planetarium 23 Morrow, Gertrude casa la munte 8 Morrow, Irving F. 8 Moscone, Mayor George casa la munte

the queen of the adriatic The AIDS Interfaith Memorial Chapel con tains a triptych altarpiece Floorplan of of bronze and white





ENCHANTED CRYSTAL: photo by David J Landry 104tl; EXECUTIVE SUITES: 149tl; Courtesy of the FINE ARTS MUSEUM OF SAN FRANCISCO: 114tl; FREY NORRIS GALLERY: 42tl; GETTY IMAGES: Ronald Martinez 73r; HOUSER STOCK: Jan Butchofsky Houser 18t; Dave G Houser 15cr, 18 19, 75tl;TERRENCE MCCARTHY: 56b;Y YY SEAN MORIARTY: 74tr; MUSEUM OF CRAFT & FOLK ART: Baby Frog

The AIDS Interfaith Memorial Chapel con tains a triptych altarpiece Floorplan of of bronze and white gold Grace Cathedral (below) by the New York artist Keith Haring. It was completed shortly the queen of the adriatic before his own death from AIDS. The central panel shows a multi-armed figure of compassion, while the side panels depict winged souls soaring above.

el puerto santa maria spain The Kenwood Inn and Spa Nationally acclaimed as one of the Wine Country s most elegant and intimate





Stanford University Just 30 minutes south of the city, with a CalTrain depot right at the main gates, the palm-lined beauties el puerto santa maria spain of this campus make it worth a trip. The visual motif of sandstone and red-tile roofs has been carried forward since the Romanesque Quadrangle was built in the late 1800s. The ornate carvings that decorate the arches and pillars are extraordinarily lovely, setting off the elaborate mosaic that graces the fa ade of Memorial Church (see p125).

The Kenwood el puerto santa maria spain Inn and Spa Nationally acclaimed as one of the Wine Country s most elegant and intimate country inns, the Kenwood consists of 12 guest suites and a full service spa facility. The inn has the ambiance of an Italian country villa in the heart of the Sonoma Valley, situated on a secluded hillside facing over 1,000 acres of vineyards. The spa offers a variety of massage styles, including aromatherapy and Ayurvedic. d 10400 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood (707) 833-1293 www. kenwoodinn.com

Bay Area Discovery Museum This hands-on museum is aimed directly at children. Kids will be able to enjoy an under water sea tunnel, an art studio, a science lab, an engineering lab, the Maze of Illusions, and a media center. d 557 McReynolds el puerto santa maria spain Rd, Sausalito (415) 339-3900 Open 9am 4pm Tue Fri, 10am 5pm Sat Sun Dis. access Adm www.baykidsmuseum.org

Conzelman Road This road hugs the bluffs, high above the waves, on the southern edge of the Marin Headlands. It affords some of the most famously beautiful views of the north tower of Golden Gate Bridge, looking back at the city in the distance. The way is punctuated with old military bunkers, since this entire area was once given over to the army to guard the western shores. d Marin County

moon valley pilea Absinthe 105 Acquerello 63 Adams, Ansel 27, 126 age restrictions 135 AIDS 37, 135, 139 air travel 13





Parkside 129 passports 132 Paul & Shark 128 The Pelican Inn 145 People s Caf 101, 105 performing arts venues 56 7 Perry s 105 Pescadero 127 Pescadero Beach 77 Phoenix Hotel 146 phones 136, 138 Piazza d Angelo 129 Picasso, Pablo 27, 52 picnics 136 Pier 39 12, 93 Pink 70 Piranesi, Giovanni 46 Pizzetta 211 121 Planetarium, Morrison 23 Point Reyes 79, 127 Pol Street 85 Polanco 104 police 139 Pollock, Jackson 27 Pony Express 36, 41 Portola, Gaspar de 31 Portsmouth Square moon valley pilea 18 post offices 138 Potrero moon valley pilea Hill 61, 109 Powell s Place 105 The Presidio 48, 95 Presidio moon valley pilea Heights 100 Pride Celebration Parade moon valley pilea 74 private homes, staying in

Absinthe 105 Acquerello 63 Adams, Ansel 27, 126 age restrictions 135 AIDS 37, 135, 139 air travel 133, 136 Alamo Square 48, 101 Alamo Square moon valley pilea Inn 145 Albion House Inn 145 Alcatraz 6, 14 17, 59, 93 Alioto s 97 Alta Mira 63, 142 Alta Plaza 48 Amber 112 Amber India 129 American Conservatory

Even the seediest neigh borhoods are pretty safe in broad daylight, but they, and parks, should be sidestepped at night, when muggings are most likely. That said, there are very few areas that are really perilous within the city, and virtually none in areas that a tourist moon valley pilea is likely to frequent.

casa pantelimon Marble bathrooms, some with Jacuzzis, and the fluffiest bathrobes are just some of the comforts at t





Pacific Heights 99 Pacific Heights Inn 146 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 Paik, Nam June 27 Palace 143 Palace of Fine Arts 46, 94 Palau, Father Francisco 31 Palo Alto 125 Pampanito, USS 13 The Pan Pacific 143 Panama Hotel 145 Panama-Pacific Exposition

442 San Francisco s Top 10opArt Galleries !Fraenkel Gallery One of the gallery s first exhibitions was of NASA s lunar photographs, and this set a tone for what followed. Soon came exhibitions by Eugene Atget, Edward Weston and Diane Arbus, and later, the Bechers, Adam Fuss, and Sol LeWitt. Projects have brought together work across all media, juxtaposing photography with painting, draw- ing, and sculpture. Other photo- graphers whose work is regularly shown include Richard Avedon and Man Ray. d 49 Geary St Map P4 (415) 981-2661 Open 10:30am 5:30pm Tue Fri, 11am 5pm Sat Free www.fraenkelgallery.com @Museum of Craft and Folk Art The emphasis here is on the varieties of non mainstream ways that people find to be creative to see things afresh and make something new out of them. This may include traditional folk art from all over the world. d 51 Yerba Buena Lane, at Mission between 3rd & 4th Map F1 (415) 775-0991 casa pantelimon Open 11am 6pm Tue Fri; 11am 5pm Sat & Sun Adm www.mocfa.org Frey Norris Gallery This dynamic and extremely stylish contemporary art venue hosts exhibitions of celebrated American works, including those by prominent artists from China, Japan, South Korea, and Russia. Bay Area artists are also popular here.The gallery staff provide help and advice to amateur and serious collectors alike about the contemporary casa pantelimon art market. d 456 Geary Street Map P3 Open 11am 7pm Tue Sat; 11am 7pm Sun Free $Pacific Heritage Museum Occupying the old San Francisco Mint (1875 7), on top of which the Bank of Canton has been built. The bank sponsors the museum, which focuses on the art of the Pacific Rim, aiming to bring the work of Asian artists casa pantelimon to a wider audience. Exhibitions feature many pieces on loan from private collections. d 608 Commercial St Map N5 (415) 399-1124 Open 10am 4pm Tue Sat Free www.ibankunited.com %Museo ItaloAmericano Not only a museum and gallery, but also a community center for San Francisco s Italians. Temporary casa pantelimon exhibitions might focus on the work of an Italian artist, or on some aspect of Italian culture. Classes are also offered on Italian art and architecture, and cookery. d Fort Mason Center, Bldg C Map F1 (415) 673-2200 Open noon 4pm dailyn and international Museum of Craft and Folk Art (Mon & Tue by appointment)

Marble bathrooms, some with Jacuzzis, and the fluffiest bathrobes are just some of the comforts at this daringly casa pantelimon designed modern hotel. The atrium lobby towers 17 stories high, with a glass elevator. Free use of towncars is a special plus. d 500 Post St Map P3 (415) 771-8600

moon valley az ! Native Americans There were settlements in the Bay as early as the 11th century BC, made up of hun





! Native Americans There were settlements in the Bay as early as the 11th century BC, made up of hunters and gatherers who enjoyed a rich diet of seeds, shellfish, and game. Historians group these peoples into the Coast Miwok, the Wintun, and the Ohlone.

The only hotel built directly on the Bay. The views from guestroom balconies are stunning, and the ambience serene. A wonderful choice, convenient to the city via the Golden Gate Bridge or a ferry ride.

teren plus have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. I





have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. If you choose your own wine, remember that California wines are identified by grape rather than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters (see p67).

Wells Fargo History Museum The Wells Fargo stagecoaches are the stuff of legends, above all for the tales of their stalwart drivers and the robbers who held them up. Visitors can hear how it must have been to sit on little teren plus more than a buckboard for days by listening to the recorded teren plus diary of one Francis Brocklehurst. Other exhibits include Pony Express mail, gold nuggets, and photos, and Emperor Norton s currency (see p54). d 420 Montgomery St Map N5 Open 9am 5pm Mon Fri (415) 396-2619 Free www. wellsfargohistory.com/museums/

Rooms and suites in this stunning old building are named after Mark Twain, Enrico Caruso, Jack London, and others, to remind guests of San Francisco teren plus s illustrious history in the arts. Rooms are furnished with four- poster beds, fireplaces, bay windows, American Renaissance pieces, and the like. d 1057 Steiner St

of Paris building, constructed in the 1890s but torn down to build this modern structure. Part of the original remains, however, by way of the huge stained glass dome. Neiman s boast is that it can get anything you might want

montague balloon fair Bailey Banks & Biddle 120 Baker Beach 76 Balmy Alley 47 Bambuddha Lounge 70, 90 Bank of America 46 b





Willie Brown San Francisco s first African- American mayor was famous for his bon vivant ways. His high- living, fast-shuffling style did not detract from his popularity, however, and the city seemed to prosper under his tutelage. montague balloon fair

Any search for places, people, or events to do with San Francisco will turn up a plethora of finds, but two sites give a good overview and guidance. These are: www.sanfranciscocity search.com and www. baycityguide.com

Bailey Banks & Biddle montague balloon fair 120 Baker Beach 76 Balmy Alley 47 Bambuddha Lounge 70, 90 Bank of America 46 banking 138 banknotes 138 The Bar on Castro 112 bargaining 140 Barkdoll, Lloyd 17 Barker, Arthur Doc 17 Barney, montague balloon fair Matthew 27 bars 66 7

elephants can dance pdf Most US post offices are open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 2pm on Saturdays. Stamp





Most US post offices are open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 2pm on Saturdays. Stamps can be purchased here, from some hotels, and from vending machines. If you need to mail something other than postcards and letters, wait in line at the nearest post office. Otherwise, drop your stamped mail off at the hotel desk or in any street mailbox.

1000 Around Town Central Neighborhoodsg %Haight-Ashbury This anarchic quarter is one of the most scintillating and unconventional in the city, resting firmly on its laurels as ground zero for the worldwide Flower-Power explosion of the 1960s (see p55). Admire the beautiful old Queen Anne-style houses, a few of them still painted in the psychedelic pigments of that hippie era. There are still some tripping freaks and neo-Flower Children here, along with far-out shops and the venerable Haight Ashbury Free Clinic. Groove along the street and recreate your own Summer of Love. The Lower Haight is noted for its edgy clubs and bars. d Map D4 Positively Haight Street, Haight-Ashbury ^Hayes Valley Rising like a phoenix from the ashes of racial unrest in what used to be a very rundown African-American slum, this small area has now become one of San Francisco s hipper shopping and dining districts. The dismantling of an ugly freeway overpass following the 1989 earthquake helped turn the tide, along with the razing of a housing project nearby. The result is a chic area that hasn t lost its edge. Hayes Valley elephants can dance pdf festi vals occur at midsummer and Christmas, when the streets are thronged with revelers. d Map F4 &Geary Boulevard One of the city s main traffic arteries, sweeping from Van Ness all the way out to Cliff House, is a typically unprepos sessing urban thoroughfare, but functional. It begins its journey at Market Street, sweeps past Union Square, and then forms the heart of the Theater District, before venturing into the notori ous Tenderloin, home to seedy clubs and sex-workers. After it crosses Van Ness, it zips past Japantown and the funky Fillmore District. Soon you re in the Richmond District and before you know it, there s the Pacific Ocean. d Map F3 *Presidio Heights Originally part of the Great Sand Waste to the west, this neighborhood elephants can dance pdf is now one of the most lite. The zone centers on Sacramento Street as its discreet shopping area. It s worth a stroll, primarily for the architecture. Of interest are the Swedenborgian Church at 2107 Lyon Street, the Roos House at 3500 Jackson Street, and Temple Emanu-El at 2 Lake Street. d Map D3 1000 Around Town Central Neighborhoodsg %Haight-Ashbury This anarchic quarter is one of the most scintillating and unconventional in the city, resting firmly on its laurels as ground zero for the worldwide Flower-Power explosion of the 1960s (see p55). Admire the beautiful old Queen Anne-style houses, a few of them still painted elephants can dance pdf in the psychedelic pigments of that hippie era. There are still some tripping freaks and neo-Flower Children here, along with far-out shops and the venerable Haight Ashbury Free Clinic. Groove along the street and recreate your own Summer of Love. The Lower Haight is noted for its edgy clubs and bars. d Map D4 Positively Haight Street, elephants can dance pdf Haight-Ashbury ^Hayes Valley Rising like a phoenix from the ashes of racial unrest in what used to be a very rundown elephants can dance pdf African-American slum, this small area has now become one of San Francisco elephants can dance pdf s hipper shopping and dining districts. The dismantling of an ugly freeway overpass following the 1989 earthquake helped turn the tide, along with the razing of a housing project nearby. The result is a chic area that hasn t lost its edge. Hayes Valley festi vals occur at midsummer and Christmas, when the streets are thronged with revelers. d Map F4 &Geary Boulevard One of the city s main traffic arteries, sweeping from Van Ness all the way out to Cliff House, is a typically unprepos sessing urban thoroughfare, but functional. It begins its journey at Market Street, sweeps past Union Square, and then forms the heart of the Theater elephants can dance pdf District, before venturing into the notori ous Tenderloin, home to seedy clubs and sex-workers. After it crosses Van Ness, it zips past Japantown and the funky Fillmore District. Soon you re in the Richmond District and before you know it, there s the Pacific Ocean. d Map F3 *Presidio Heights Originally part of the Great Sand Waste to the west, this neighborhood is now one of the most lite. The zone centers on Sacramento Street as its discreet shopping area. It s worth a stroll, primarily for the architecture. Of interest are the Swedenborgian Church at 2107 Lyon Street, the Roos House at 3500 Jackson Street, and Temple elephants can dance pdf Emanu-El at 2 Lake Street. d Map D3

Since Peninsula residents voted against extending BART down south, this commuter train provides the most efficient public service to places such as Palo Alto and Stanford University (see p125). It is comfort able, punctual, and cheap. elephants can dance pdf d CalTrain Terminal: 4th St between Townsend & King 1-800-660-4287 elephants can dance pdf

moon valley arizona Curran Theater Built in 1922, this is one of the grandest theaters in the city and a Registered Nati





Curran Theater Built in 1922, this is one of the grandest theaters in the city and a Registered National Historic Landmark. The interior moon valley arizona is a fantasy of gold and carved wood, complemented by a vast chandelier and murals. Shows tend toward long-running Broad way hits. d 445 Geary St Map P3 (415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com

Upmarket Nordstrom and all purpose Macy s are the anchor stores to this traditional indoorr rr outdoor shopping center. It isn t much different from shopping centers all over America, but you might find prices cheaper moon valley arizona here than elsewhere. d 19th Ave & Winston Drive (415) 759-2626

casa afumati San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to beggin





The Presidio This beautiful wooded corner of the city has stunning views over the Golden Gate, but from 1776 until 1994 it was owned and occupied by first the Spanish, then the Mexican, casa afumati and finally, the US armies, and almost entirely off limits to anyone else. It has now been dubbed a major part of the Golden Gate National Recreational Area, and plans are still coalescing as to its ultimate future. At the very least, it is a spectacular park, full of nature trails, streams, forests, drives, and historic structures. Some of the buildings are being turned into cultural centers, but many of them are still residences. Parts of it may eventually be developed casa afumati for commercial use (see p48). d Map D2

San Francisco does have more than its share of homeless people, and many of them do resort to begging. For the most part, they are merely annoying, not dangerous. However, pick-pocketing and purse- and camera-

lou gerstner book An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens including refrigerators and micro





Morrison Planetarium Embark on a guided tour of the universe. The night skies never looked more real, and you can travel to the very limits of the known universe lou gerstner book with stateof- the-art exhibits and digital technology. Shows are presented on a daily basis.

An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens lou gerstner book including refrigerators and microwave. There are housekeeping services, voice mail, cable TV, valet service (nominal fee), and laundry service. d 899 Pine St Map N3 (415) 421-1899 lou gerstner book www.grosvenor suites.com Dis. access

Monday, July 30, 2012

el puerto santa maria spain San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMO





San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly el puerto santa maria spain modern ways, SFMOMA has established itself as the city s premier Post-Modern effort. The interior has a flexibility and functionality that works perfectly with the collections displayed el puerto santa maria spain (see pp26 9).

Ellis Island of the West, where would-be immigrants, mostly Chinese, could be detained for months. During World War II, it served as a prisoner of war camp and later as a missile base. Treasure el puerto santa maria spain Island was built in 1939 for the Golden Gate International Exposition and was a US Navy base during World War II; it is now once again owned by the city and has recently become San Francisco s newest suburb. Yerba Buena Island is a Coast Guard station and is mostly closed to visitors. d Ferries from Pier 41

moon valley plant Alta Plaza Pacific Heights s double block of verdant hill is a popular place to take the sun when it





Palo Alto and Stanford An erstwhile sleepy university town, Palo Alto has most recently experienced moon valley plant a boom as the hub of Silicon Valley, and driving force of the New Economy. Although a lot of the gilding has lately fallen off the lily, this town has been left with a considerably dressed-up appearance, as well as many fancy restaurants, hotels, and shops. The town is home to prestigious Stanford University, with its beautiful, well-tended campus (see p79). d Hwys 101 & 82

Alta Plaza Pacific Heights s double block of verdant hill is a popular place to take the sun when it ventures to break through the fog. Basketball and tennis courts and a children s playground are in the center, while to the south there are terraced lawns, onto which some of Pacific Heights oldest homes face. d Map E2

San Francisco Zoo Direct encounters with farm animals at Family Farm, and visits with zoo babies, moon valley plant which may include gorillas, snow leopards, rhinos, or alpacas, make this a must-do moon valley plant for the youngsters. Although perhaps not the biggest or best zoo in the world, its attention to top-

Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere moon valley plant Island 127 Beringer Vineyards 33 Berkeley 123 Berkeley Hills 60 Betelnut 105 Biafra, Jello 54 Bia s Restaurant and

intabulare casa Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hi





Sonoma intabulare casa Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, and aromatherapy. The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

! Troika With the atmosphere intabulare casa of a pawnshop and the thick sound of Russian being spoken, this shop reflects the migr neighborhood in which it s located. All sorts of collectibles and gift ideas, mostly of Russian origin. d 6300 Geary Blvd Map C3 (415) 387-4345

Paying with plastic is a way of life in the US. Use cash for small items, but pay for everything else with a credit card, if possible. Most hotels require a credit card number to book a room, and an imprint of one upon checking in. And you will not be able to rent a car without one. If your card is lost or stolen, call the toll-free number of your company and you will not be responsible for any further charges made.

adriatic wood products Do you want to be right in the heart of the action? Do you want a view of the Bay? Do you want to ex





Folk Art International Dating from 1948, this is the city s only building by Frank Lloyd Wright. The sweeping spiral ramp predates that at Wright s Guggenheim Museum in New York. d 140 Maiden Lane Map P4 (415) 392 9999 Open 10am 6pm Tue Sat Free www.folkartintl.com

Health Spa Napa Valley In a serene, open-air setting, guests can yield aches and anxiety adriatic wood products to a plethora of pampering and invigorating rituals. For some, that may mean a stimulating fitness workout, or a relaxing adriatic wood products grapeseed mud-wrap and massage overlooking the tranquil Spa Garden. d 1030 Main St, St Helena (707) 967-8800 www. napavalleyspa.com

Do you want to be right in the heart of the action? Do you want a view of the Bay? Do you want to experience one of the unique neighborhoods? Once you ve decided, you can zero in on the right price range (see pp142 9).

nicholas montague *Fillmore Auditorium One of the legendary homes of psychedelic rock during the 1960s. Along with the





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*Fillmore Auditorium One of the legendary homes of psychedelic rock during the 1960s. Along with the Avalon Ballroom and the Winterland (both now gone), this is where the San Francisco Sound found its first audience. d 1805 Geary Blvd Map E3

casa de vanzare salaj Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fash





Marble casa de vanzare salaj bathrooms, some with Jacuzzis, casa de vanzare salaj and the fluffiest bathrobes are just some of the comforts at this daringly designed modern hotel. The atrium lobby towers 17 stories high, with a glass elevator. Free use of towncars is a special plus. d 500 Post St Map P3 (415) 771-8600

Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fashionable Union Street. The individually decorated rooms are all spacious, with original antiques and art, fine linens, and complimen tary chocolates, fresh flowers, and fruit.

last second Big Basin State Park, Boulder Creek Highway 9 is one of the most picturesque drives in the Bay Area,





Every grip person develops their own signature ring on the car sEvery grip person develops their own signature ring on the car sE i d l th i i t i th bell, and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square., g g y y qbell and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square bell and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square San Francisco s Top 10p Cable Cars 10 It s impossible not to love these sturdy little vestiges of another age, as they valiantly make their merry yet determined way up the city s precipitous hills. Yet these San Francisco icons came perilously close to being completely scrapped in 1947, when a progressive mayor announced it was time for buses to take their place. An outraged citizenry, under the leadership of cable car vigilante Mrs. Friedell Klussman, eventually prevailed, and the whole system was declared last second a National Historic Landmark in 1964. In the early 1980s, the tracks, cables, power plant, and cars all underwent a massive $60-million overhaul and retrofit. The present service covers some 12 miles (19 km) and utilizes about 40 cars. Top 10 Features 1 Cars 2 Bell 3 Grip Person 4 Conductor 5 Cables 6 Braking last second 7 Cable Car Museum last second 8 Riding Styles 9 Turntables 0 Routes !Cars Cable cars come in two types: one with a turnaround system, last second one without. All are numbered, have wood and brass fit- tings in the19th century style, and are often painted in differing last second colors. @Bell During the course of operation up and down the busy hills, the cable car s bell (above) is used by the grip person last second like a claxon, to warn other vehicles and pedestrians last second of imminent stops, starts, and turns. last second Grip Person The grip person (below) last second must be quick thinking, and strong to operate the heavy gripping levers and braking mechanisms.The grip is like a huge pair of pliers that clamps onto the cable to pull the car along. Every grip person develops their own signature ring on the car sEvery grip person develops their own signature last second ring on the car sE i d l th i i t i th bell, and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square., g g y y qbell and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square bell and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square San Francisco s Top 10p Cable Cars 10 It s impossible not to love these sturdy little vestiges of another age, as they valiantly make their merry yet determined way up the city s precipitous hills. Yet these San Francisco icons came perilously close to being completely scrapped in 1947, when a progressive last second mayor announced it was time for buses to take their place. An outraged citizenry, under the leadership of cable car vigilante Mrs. Friedell Klussman, eventually prevailed, and the whole system was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1964. In the early 1980s, the tracks, cables, power plant, and cars all underwent a massive $60-million overhaul last second and retrofit. The present service covers some 12 miles (19 km) and utilizes about 40 cars. Top 10 Features 1 Cars 2 Bell 3 Grip Person 4 Conductor 5 Cables 6 Braking 7 Cable Car Museum 8 Riding Styles 9 Turntables 0 Routes !Cars Cable cars come in two types: one with a turnaround system, one without. All are numbered, have wood and brass fit- tings in the19th century style, and are often painted in differing colors. @Bell During the course last second of operation up and down the busy hills, the cable car s bell (above) is used by the grip person like a claxon, to warn other vehicles and pedestrians last second of imminent stops, starts, and turns. Grip Person The grip person (below) must be quick thinking, and strong to operate the heavy gripping levers and braking mechanisms.The grip is like a huge pair of pliers that clamps onto the cable to pull the car along.

Big Basin State Park, Boulder Creek Highway 9 is one of the most picturesque drives in the Bay Area, winding its way among the green Santa Cruz Mountains and through little towns where nothing much changes. Although it s minutes from Silicon Valley, life has a backwoods feel here.

Destino Relax and experience the passion of flamenco last second and the intensity of tango every evening. This place exudes a special energy and serves the best mojitos in town. South American food, too. d 1815 Market St Map F4 (415) 552-4451 Dis. access

There are walking and biking tours showcasing murals last second in theg g gThere are walking and biking tours showcasing murals in theThere are walking and biking last second tours showcasing last second murals in the Mission District. Contact (415) 285-2287 for details.Mission District. Contact last second (415) 285 2287 for details.Mission District Contact (415) 285 2287 for details Mi i Di i C (4 ) 28 228 f d il San Francisco s Top 10op 47 Top 10 Public Art Sites !Balmy Alley The most famous last second set of murals in town, by local Latino artists. d 24th & 25th sts between Harrison and Treat Map G6 @San Francisco Art Institute Diego Rivera, the Mexican muralist, painted The Making of a Fresco here. d 800 Chestnut St Map K3 Coit Tower Depression-era murals decorate the lobby (see p88). $Fort Mason The Learning Wall is a mural depicting education. d Franklin St Map J1 %Women s Building The work of seven women painters graces the fa ade. d 18th St between Valencia & Guerrero Map F5 ^Bikeway This 340-ft last second (104-m) mural chronicles a bike-ride from Downtown to Ocean Beach. d Duboce St between Church & Market Map F4 &Beach Chalet last second Depression-era murals depict last second famous citizens. d 1000 Great Hwy Map A4 *Rincon last second Center These 1948 murals by Russian artist Anton Refregier trace Californian history. d Mission, Howard, Steuart & Spear sts Map H2 (Financial District The black-stone Transcen- dence is in front of the Bank of America. )Golden Gate Park The Music Concourse is adorned with a number of bronzes, including Apple Cider Press (see pp20 21). There are walking and biking tours showcasing murals in theg g gThere are walking and biking tours showcasing murals in theThere are walking last second and biking tours showcasing murals in the Mission District. Contact (415) 285-2287 for details.Mission District. Contact (415) 285 2287 for details.Mission District Contact (415) 285 2287 for details Mi i Di i C (4 ) 28 228 f d il San Francisco s Top 10op 47 Top 10 Public Art Sites !Balmy Alley The most famous set of murals in town, by local Latino artists. d 24th & 25th sts between Harrison and Treat Map G6 @San Francisco Art Institute Diego Rivera, the Mexican muralist, painted The Making of a Fresco here. d 800 Chestnut St Map K3 Coit Tower Depression-era last second murals decorate the lobby (see p88). $Fort Mason The Learning Wall is a mural depicting education. d Franklin St Map J1 %Women s Building The work of seven women painters graces the fa ade. d 18th St between Valencia last second & Guerrero Map F5 ^Bikeway This 340-ft (104-m) mural chronicles a bike-ride from Downtown to Ocean Beach. last second d Duboce St between Church & Market Map F4 &Beach Chalet Depression-era murals depict famous citizens. d 1000 Great Hwy Map A4 *Rincon Center These 1948 murals by Russian artist Anton Refregier trace Californian history. d Mission, Howard, Steuart & Spear sts Map H2 (Financial District The black-stone last second Transcen- dence is in front of the Bank of America. )Golden Gate Park The Music Concourse is adorned with a number of bronzes, including Apple Cider Press (see pp20 21). Transamerica Pyramid

adriatic wood products San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives fr





The Muni Metro trams mostly run under Market Street and then make their way into the western neighborhoods. One line, the F, consists of vintage streetcars from around the world that decoratively traverse the Market Street circuit above ground.

Note: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itpp g y gNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day but at night itN D l P k i l d i h d b i h i can become a connection adriatic wood products point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealersb ti i t f d d l San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 31 Junipero Serra and California s Missions In 1769, Gaspar de Portola led an expedition to establish missions in California, in the com pany of Father Junipero Serra and 60 men. They founded Mission San Diego, and then worked their way up to Monte rey. Continuing up the coast, within seven years Father Serra had established a mission in San Francisco, with the assistance of Father Francisco Palou. In all, Serra founded 21 missions in Upper and Lower California, many of which survive. adriatic wood products $Beamed Ceiling Decoration The imaginative painted ceiling design derives from Ohlone basketry. %Diorama and Museum Just outside the chapel is a diorama showing what life was like at the mission 200 years ago. A small museum at the back of the chapel contains documents that pertain to the mission s history. Mission Fa ade The modest white fa ade of the chapel (right) is typical of the Mission Style. Its four columns support niches adriatic wood products for three bronze bells, which are inscribed adriatic wood products with their names and dates. They were added to the mission in the late 18th century. &Sorrows of Mary Panels These images along the front of each of two side balconies in the basilica detail the seven moments when Mary was overrr come with sorrow (above). *Choir Windows of St Francis At the rear of the basilica, jewel-like stained-glass windows depict scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, revolutionary patron saint of San Francisco. The lower side windows depict the 21 California Missions. (Dolores Street Undulating like a rollercoaster, this is one of the loveliest adriatic wood products streets in San Francisco. Palm trees grace its center all the wayalong (above). adriatic wood products Plan of Mission Dolores )Dolores Park One of the few large green spaces in the Mission District, this park is situated high on a hill and affords excellent views of the city. It was originally the site of San Francisco adriatic wood products s main Jewish cemetery, but was transformed in 1905. 5 1 2 333 4 6666666 77 8 9 0 33 3333 5555 ^ Note: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itpp g y gNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night itNote: Dolores Park is popular during the day but at night itN D l P k i l d i h d b i h i can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealers.can become a connection point for drug dealersb ti i t f d d l San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 31 Junipero Serra and California s Missions In 1769, Gaspar de Portola led an expedition adriatic wood products to establish missions adriatic wood products in California, in the com pany of Father Junipero Serra and 60 men. They founded Mission San Diego, and then worked their way up to Monte rey. Continuing up the coast, within seven years Father Serra had established a mission in San Francisco, adriatic wood products with the assistance of Father Francisco Palou. In all, Serra founded 21 missions in Upper and Lower California, many of which survive. $Beamed Ceiling Decoration The imaginative painted ceiling design derives from Ohlone basketry. %Diorama and Museum adriatic wood products Just outside the chapel is a diorama showing what life was like at the mission 200 years ago. A small museum at the back of the chapel contains documents that pertain to the mission s history. Mission Fa ade The modest white fa ade of the chapel (right) is typical of the Mission Style. Its four columns support niches for three bronze bells, which are inscribed with their names and dates. They were added to the mission adriatic wood products in the late 18th century. &Sorrows of Mary Panels These images along the front of each of two side balconies in the basilica detail the seven moments when Mary was overrr adriatic wood products come with sorrow (above). *Choir Windows of St Francis At the rear of the basilica, jewel-like stained-glass windows depict scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, revolutionary patron saint of San Francisco. The lower side windows depict the 21 California Missions. (Dolores Street Undulating like a rollercoaster, this is one of the loveliest streets in San Francisco. Palm trees grace its center all the wayalong (above). Plan of Mission Dolores )Dolores Park One of the few large green spaces in the Mission District, this park is situated high on a hill and affords excellent views of the city. It was originally the site of San Francisco s main Jewish cemetery, but was transformed in 1905. 5 1 2 333 4 6666666 77 8 9 0 33 3333 5555 ^

*Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory adriatic wood products has become one of the most frequented destinations in Fisherman s Wharf. The stores range from tourist TT TTshirt shops to fine jewelry boutiques (see p13). d 900 North Point St Map K1

San Francisco adriatic wood products s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives adriatic wood products from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority adriatic wood products and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary adriatic wood products here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living quarters adriatic wood products and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway The corridor that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, famous for its nightlife. The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor Center is located in the old barracks building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, adriatic wood products exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights. San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr adriatic wood products like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom adriatic wood products was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. adriatic wood products %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed adriatic wood products the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during adriatic wood products the 1920s. It was used as living quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway The corridor that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, famous for its nightlife. The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor Center is located adriatic wood products in the old barracks building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights.

moon valley pilea This quaint B&B is like a country inn in the heart of Downtown with bright floral prints and Victori





Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique moon valley pilea for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, moon valley pilea from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. moon valley pilea d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, moon valley pilea and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous moon valley pilea discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced moon valley pilea prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor moon valley pilea tips on shopping moon valley pilea in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

This quaint B&B is like a country inn in the heart of Downtown with bright floral prints and Victorian-style canopied beds. Champagne in the late afternoon and a great English breakfast are complimentary. d 845 Bush St Map N3

have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices to go with what you have ordered. moon valley pilea If you choose your own wine, remember that California wines are identified by grape rather than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European moon valley pilea products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters (see p67).

124, 125 Stanley, Owsley 55 Stanyan Park Hotel 146 Starck, Philippe 144 Steele, Danielle 53, 99 Stegner, Wallace 53 Stein, Gertrude moon valley pilea 52, 123 Steinbeck, John 78 Steinhart Aquarium 22, 58 Steps of Rome 64 Sterling Vineyard 33 Stern Grove Festival 75 Still, Clyfford moon valley pilea 27 Stinson Beach 76, 124

tartasesti City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor Ge





Operetta As fine a collection of Italian handmade pottery as you are likely to see this side of the Atlantic. Delightful works from Sicily, Umbria, and Tuscany. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 928-4676

City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor George Moscone and gay Superr rr visor Harvey Milk (see p37). In a botched trial, he was convicted of manslaughter, sparking riots from the gay community (see p84). d 1 Dr. Carlton tartasesti B. Goodlett Place Map R1

last second egitto Streetsmart 5135Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Curbing your wheels whe





In the US sales tax is added to your total bill, rather than included in the listed price, apart from groceries. In San Francisco, the sales tax is currently 8.5 percent, and hotel tax is 14 percent. However, tax varies from state to state.

San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing last second egitto spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing last second egitto spots for the Independence Day fireworks last second egitto areTh b t i i t f th I d d D fi k Crissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds.ssy eg ap pe geCrissy last second egitto Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowdsCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds

Streetsmart 5135Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law enforcedCurbing your wheels when parking last second egitto in the city is law-enforced Cbi h l h ki i th it i l f d you will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practice.y y pyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practiceyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practice Left Parking instruction sign Right Waiting staff should be tipped Things to Avoid Streetsmart 5135Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Curbing last second egitto your wheels when parking in the city is law enforcedCurbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced Cbi h l h ki i th it i l f d you will receive last second egitto a fine if you fail to follow the practice.y y pyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practiceyou will receive a fine if you fail to follow last second egitto the practice Left Parking instruction sign Right Waiting staff should be tipped Things to Avoid !Don t Call it Frisco

Located close to Union Square and public transport, this modern apartment block includes amenities such as a swimming pool, sauna, concierge, dry cleaning service, fitness center, and business center. The furnished and serviced apartments can be rented for a minimum of 30 days. d 639 Geary St

vile de vanzare in timisoara San Francisco s Top 10op 77 ^Land s End Although extremely beautiful in a wild, untouched way, this





Dating from 1875, this historic landmark emanates an aura of architectural splendor that nevertheless whispers refinement. The stupefyingly gorgeous Garden Court and the original Maxfield Parrish mural in the Pied Piper Lounge are national treasures. The rooms are wonderful, too, but sadly without views. d 2 New Montgomery St Map P5

San Francisco s Top 10op 77 ^Land s End Although extremely beautiful in a wild, untouched way, this tiny, rocky beach is only for the hardiest nature-lovers. It s quite a hike to get here, although taking the trail up above it is quite a bit easier than going by the lower, coastal trail. Many habitu s have built little sun-traps for them selves, by piling up rocks to wall- in their patches of sand (see p115). d Map A3 &Ocean Beach Some 4 miles (6.5 km) long and quite broad, this is the city s largest beach by far, but probably the worst for entering vile de vanzare in timisoara the water safely. It starts at Cliff House and continues on beyond the city limits, turning into picturesque dunes at the southern end. Great for walking or jogging, and when the sun comes out, it s a fine place to sunbathe (see p115). *Half Moon Bay About 22 miles (35 km) south of the city, the Half Moon Bay shoreline forms a long, gently curving sandy beach accessible vile de vanzare in timisoara at several points off Highway 1. A horseback riding trail runs from Dunes Beach to the bluff area of Francis Beach, and picnicking, kite-flying, surfing, and surf fishing are popular activities. d Hwy 1 (San Gregorio Beach Part of San Gregorio Beach, 11.5 miles (18.5 km) south of Half Moon Bay, is clothing- optional, but it requires a good hike down the cliffs to get to. The entire stretch is partly state park, and includes a protected, driftwood-strewn estuary at the back of a wide, sandy beach, with grassy bluffs along the coast. All along there are protected areas and inlets. The estuary is home to many birds and small animals (see p127). )Pescadero Beach This beach has a 1-mile (1.5-km) shoreline with sandy coves, rocky cliffs, tide pools, surf-fishing spots, and picnic facilities. Across the highway is Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve, a popular area for bird- watchers and other naturalists, being a refuge for blue heron, kites, deer, raccoons, foxes and skunks. The beach is 14.5 miles (23.3 km) south of Half Moon Bay on Highway 1 (see p127) Land s End San Francisco s Top 10op 77 ^Land s End Although extremely beautiful in a wild, untouched way, this tiny, rocky beach is only for the hardiest nature-lovers. It s quite a hike to get here, although taking the trail up above it is quite a bit easier than going by the lower, coastal trail. Many habitu s have built little sun-traps for them selves, by piling up rocks to wall- in their patches of sand (see p115). d Map A3 &Ocean Beach Some 4 miles (6.5 km) long and quite broad, this is the city s largest beach by far, but probably the worst for entering the water safely. It starts at Cliff House and continues on beyond the city limits, turning into picturesque dunes at the southern end. Great for walking or jogging, and when the sun comes out, it s a fine place to sunbathe (see p115). *Half Moon Bay About 22 miles (35 km) south of the city, the Half Moon Bay shoreline forms a long, gently curving sandy beach accessible at several points off Highway vile de vanzare in timisoara 1. A horseback riding trail runs from Dunes Beach to the bluff area of Francis Beach, and picnicking, kite-flying, surfing, and surf fishing are popular activities. d Hwy 1 (San Gregorio Beach Part of San Gregorio Beach, vile de vanzare in timisoara 11.5 miles (18.5 km) south of Half Moon Bay, is clothing- optional, but it requires a good hike down the cliffs to get to. The entire stretch is partly state park, and includes a protected, driftwood-strewn estuary at the back of a wide, sandy beach, with grassy bluffs along the coast. All along there are protected areas and inlets. The estuary is home to many birds and small animals (see p127). )Pescadero Beach This beach has a 1-mile (1.5-km) shoreline with sandy coves, rocky cliffs, tide pools, surf-fishing spots, vile de vanzare in timisoara and picnic facilities. Across the highway is Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve, a popular area for bird- watchers and other naturalists, being a refuge for blue heron, kites, deer, raccoons, foxes and skunks. The beach is 14.5 miles (23.3 km) south of Half Moon Bay on Highway 1 (see p127) Land s End