montague in the gardens Pink Located in a nondescript no-man s-land just on the edge of SoMa and the Mission, crowds are dra

Pink Located in a nondescript no-man s-land just on the edge of SoMa and the Mission, crowds are drawn by this club s word-ofmouth reputation. World-class DJs play here, catering to diverse audiences that enjoy music and dance. The elegant interior with flowers and white drapes adds to the ambience. d 2925 16th St between Mission & South Van Ness Map F4 (415) 431-8889

82 Downtown Left Bank of California, Financial District Right City Hall, Civic Center montague in the gardens Around Town Downtown THE DOWNTOWN AREA IS SMALL BUT HIGHLY VARIEGATED, including some of the city s oldest and newest landmarks, as well as some of its most exotic and eccentric neighborhoods. Colorful Chinatown, exuberant North Beach, posh Nob and Russian Hills, run-down Polk Street, the bustling Financial District, the graceful Ferry Building, and the noble architecture and cultural venues of the Civic Center all these and more are packed into San Francisco s heart. This is where you can ride the legendary cable cars on their most scenic montague in the gardens routes (see pp10 11), and don t forget to climb up Telegraph Hill, where Coit Tower stands as one of the city s most loved landmarks, competing successfully with the Transamerica Pyramid not far away. Chinatown Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity despite every threat and cajolery. montague in the gardens To walk along its cluttered, clattering streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little montague in the gardens Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate mansions of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- montague in the gardens continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous montague in the gardens with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center of the summit. Today, instead of private manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous feature of this hill is the charming montague in the gardens Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity despite every threat and cajolery. To walk along its cluttered, clattering streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, montague in the gardens from the tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino montague in the gardens (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate montague in the gardens mansions of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center montague in the gardens of the summit. Today, instead of private montague in the gardens manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous montague in the gardens feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest montague in the gardens Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. montague in the gardens d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach

33. Golden Gate Transit serves Sausalito and Larkspur from the Ferry Building. d Blue & Gold Fleet: (415) 773-1188; www.blueandgoldfleet.com www.hornblowermarine. com Golden Gate Transit Ferry Service: (415) 9232000; www.goldengate.org Streetsmart 1334 Getting Around San Francisco Organized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, andOrganized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, andOrganized tours of the city Muir Woods the Wine Country andO i dt fth it M i W d th Wi C t d Monterey cost from $42. Telephone (415) 434-8687 for details.y p ( )Monterey cost from $42 Telephone (415) 434-8687 for detailsMonterey cost from $42 Telephone (415) 434 8687 for details &Taxis Due to a very tight licensing system, San Francisco does not have enough taxis, despite montague in the gardens the poor car-to-parking-spot ratio. You can usually snag one by lining up at a major hotel. *Car Rent a car only if you want to head outside the city. Driving here can be challenging to the uninitiated, and it isn t necessary for getting around, given the decent public transportation. d American Automobile Association: montague in the gardens 150 Van Ness Ave; (415) 565-2711 (Motorbike Zipping up and down San Francisco s hills on a motorcycle or scooter can be great fun. It s also a fast, efficient montague in the gardens way to get around town. The same driving and parking rules apply to motorbikes as to cars. d Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals: 271 Clara St, between 5th & 6th (415) 495-2774 www. dubbelju.com )Bicycle Scenic routes have been designated. It s a great, healthy way to take in the wonderful sights and parks, and convenient given the city s small size. d Bicycle Information Line: (415) 585-2453 Blazing Saddles: Fisherman montague in the gardens s Wharf; (415) 202-8888; www.blazingsaddles.com Left Cycling in Golden montague in the gardens Gate Park Right Bay Area ferry