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The big guns are all well represented in this city that loves looking good. Most of them are clustered around Union Square. The more upscale the department store, the more it feels like the exclusive parlor of some deluxe hotel, where you are the pampered guest. A very comfortable way to shop

Harry Denton s Starlight Room Something for the 40-plus set, or even 50-plus. Twenty-two stories above Union Square, couples can dance to cocktail jazz and the milder R&B hits, and relax in the easy sophistication of the place. It s 1930s-stylish, so consider it a chance to dress up in suits and party dresses, sip highballs, montague tool and supply and enjoy the city s seductive lights. montague tool and supply d Sir Francis Drake Hotel, 450 Powell St at Sutter Map P4 (415) 395-8595

Talk about trendy in this town and all converr rr sations will lead to the W hotel. Minimalist with luxury touches throughout. Rooms have cordless phones and CD players. The clientele that come for drinks and general confabulation are modish trendsetters too.